Thread: Plugger and The Camel

Hi Tricky, s3 bulkheads are different as the s3 dash is completly different to series 2a. Also there is a difference between 4 cyl and 6 cyl bulkheads. U would be best getting a post 1967 bulkhead if possible to suit as there are differences as well between pre and post '67. I am presuming ur 88" is post '67 going by the guards which came out in late '69. '67 to '68, headlights were still in rad support panel. Late '68 to '69 were mounted on the guards but to the outside of the panel like "bug eyes", and some ppl would put the lights into the rad panel as well, coz the rad panel just had blanking plates fitted mostly, so they were "4 eyed". Then late '69 through to early '72 the lights were fitted into the guards like s3. Also s3 had heaters fitted integrally with the dash for ADR,s and a plastic crash pad etc. It can be done but a lot of stuffing around. Better to get ur bulkhead repaired. All rust repair panels are available. Speak to the Ho Hars on here. He does rust repairs and also has heaps of second hand spares as well.

Cheers Rod

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Sorry I can't help with an image of a Series top right hand side guard, cheers Dennis

Not only is the dash all different but so are the hinges - you'd then need series 3 or defender doors, and the windscreen mounts differently too I think so you may need a different frame.

Better off with a good 2a unit and just cut out the hole a bit bigger to fit the series 3 brake pedal assembly.

Door hinges are different but the boltholes are in the same place, so they are interchangeable.

The major issues though, as indicated are the windscreen hinges and dashboard, which are not interchangeable - if you use the Series 3 bulkhead you are going to have to either modify the bulkhead to make it similar to the Series 2/2a, or fit Series 3 dash and windscreen. (which raises other issues including you need a Series 3 wiring harness, switchgear steering wheel bits and pieces, speedo cable, speedo - and probably other bits I haven't thought of!)

John

Well done team!!

I am just going to stick with the original Camel S2A bulkhead and make repairs and alterations as the need arises. It seems like a simpler, and more original route (the term 'original' is used very loosely here...)!!!

Rod - September '69 I am lead to believe!

Thanks again to all who contributed, you make it so much easier!!

Cheers and thanks,
Tricky and Plugger

Hi Guys,

Its been a few weeks since I last posted. While its not been overly busy at work, I have not been idle - there always seem to be something to do that takes up inordinate amount of time. I have been rearranging the workshop of late installing some industrial shelving to get all the car parts and bits up off the floor so I can at least move around the shop - finished that this weekend and will continue tidying the workshop over the coming weeks!

Last weekend saw some action with the Camel! While we are still waiting on some parts to finish off the steering relay, parts did arrive to start and finish the rear suspension and rebuild the entire rear end. The rear end being without any kind of steering parts is much simpler and our thought process would be that we should be able to strip it, clean it, paint it, replace parts and rebuild it all over two weekends - sounds do-able!

So, we dragged out the rear assembly and started with the tear-down process.


First off was to drain the oil from the rear diff. Unlike the front diff, the rear had oil in it which I was happy about. It wasn't all that healthy, but at least it was lubricated! It had been in there so long I suspect that it was starting to break down and lose its viscosity - it came out muddy brown, smelly and the consistency of water!!


The one shackle that was rusted solid was cutoff and thrown into the bin. Likewise the shock absorbers were taken off and thrown in the bin - they were totally knackered and not re-usable. One of the spring shackle bushes were non-existent, the rest looked OK but just worn. Flipping the whole assembly over it was time to take the springs off. Unlike the front assembly which required judicious use of the angle grinder to get the U-bolts off the rear springs came off with only the use of the breaker-bar. The springs looked OK too - lying side-by-side the were identical and in good condition - also unlike the front ones! I am considering just painting them and putting them back on - we will see how they go with the new bushes and whether the eyes are flogged out or not.


The oil seals were of course knackered. The had allowed oil to flow past and get into the hubs. The brake linings were covered in the oil to the point of saturation and it would have been doubtful if the brakes would have been even slightly effective. Doesn't matter - another candidate for the wheelie-bin. New brake pads and slave-cylinders had shown up mid-week.


Continued...

Continued....

I left the brake drums underneath the axle hubs to act as a stand for the waste oil pan to help catch the last of the oil as the hubs were cracked open. Flanges off, hubs off and axles pulled out - all good and no issues. The axle splines looked good with no signs of excessive wear. Filtering the oil revealed no metal flakes or parts so all was good there. One thing that did pique my interest was that there was silicon around the diff flange and mounting face (which to tell you the truth is a bot of a bug-bear of mine as it was an outright PIA to try and separate!!! ). Unsure whether this was to cure an oil leak or in fact the diff centre was removed at some point for servicing or replacement...???? The diff itself was in good nick with less play that the front diff - which leads me to think it is in fact a replacement or its been overhauled in its dim dark past.

The diff housing itself had been painted red in its past life and then yellow!! So does this mean an overhaul? The brake line backing plates were removed with the brake lines still attached. The bolts holding the tabs on were rusted solid so I cut them off with the angle grinder - I will just replace them with some P-clips when the time comes - all the brake lines and T-piece were discarded with a view to replacing everything including the brake lines with stainless steel ones:


Then it was time to clean - I set the diff housing and centre up for pressure cleaning with the Karcher to get all the accumulated muck off from years of use and abuse! It really wasn't that bad, but the high pressure water jet made short work of most of it:


Once all the cleaning with the pressure washing was done it was time to get all the old paint and grime off with the wire wheel that wouldn't come off with water. I got Plugger onto it. He had decided that it was OK to come to work without the right PPE on - no long pants. He paid the price with a wire strand in the leg. Lesson learnt - the workshop and especially using a power tool requires the use of correct PPE ALL THE TIME!


Plugger back into it with long pants this time!


And finally, all the bits back in the shop all cleaned and ready for the painting process - which is scheduled for next weekend. Job done, time for a beer and a swim!


Thanks to everyone for your continued support, enthusiasm and guidance with this project. I know that both myself and Plugger are enjoying the journey and I hope that you guys are too!! We appreciate your support!

Thanks and Cheers,
Tricky and Plugger

Ah yes - the old wire in the leg trick from the grinder - I think we've all been there many times, it's like a right of passage when cleaning old Land Rover bits.

Great work as always, still steaming ahead.