Thread: V8 county ute

And a nice large neck series filler
It’s tucked away but with the extension will still suit the occasional jerry can
.

Finished off the fuel system tonight. As usual it took longer and cost more.
Nice clean original tank, into a small fuel filter, then to the high volume low pressure lift pump and then to port two on the surge tank, out of port one into the Bosch 044 low volume high pressure pump and through a new stock Ryco filter.
On through new high pressure hose to the fuel rail.
Through the rail and the fuel pressure regulator and new hose to port three in the surge tank.
Port four in the surge tank goes to main tank return with a tee of that line going to a Facet pump from the under drivers seat auxiliary tank, there’s also a breather from this tank and the main tank that return through the charcoal canister.
All new hose and clamps should be good for another 34 years .

I know a lot of people do it but why did you decide to go lift pump, to surge tank and then to high pressure pump? Rather than just a high pressure pump either in the tank or external then a fuel pressure regulator to the fuel rail which closer replicates an OEM arrangement.

The am going the latter route and am curious why the way you have chosen.

Cheers

Garry

Garry,
I ran an external high pressure pump on my 2 door rangie for about 5 years, it was mounted right near the tank and didn’t have to suck much, which HPLV pumps are not meant to do. They also do not like to starve of fuel which I did s few times because of steep angles .
Which killed it in the end. The surge tank should solve that. The location of the new set up is nice and protected and easily accessible for maintenance although a little high hence the lift pump.
The accessibility of the EFI tank is poor and the rebate set up in the top fills with .
The HP pump is generic .
I have a spare HV pump
It’s a bit complicated
I would have had to buy a Efi tank and new pump which would have been $500, I thought this would be cheaper .
The FPR is attached to the manifold and post the injectors and hold fuel pressure on the return.

Test fit some worn 315/75r16’s or 35’s

I forgot how much hard work it is stripping and fitting tyres by hand,I did 2 tonight and I’m done.
Will need to cycle the suspension to check for clearance, I have a hunch they will rub on the tray frame,
This is with 33’s.
No springs or shocks, on the bump stops
I can scallop out some of the steel inside edge and or lift the tray 20mm or so.

Just on the subject of tyres.
If you can’t change a tyre you shouldn’t be on here.
There will be a forum somewhere for people like that.
I know it’s hard work and you won’t do it for fun, but hands up who of us has the truly manly skill of being able to strip and fit a tyre?

My hands up - but I'd only do it if I absolutely had too. I'd probably hitch hike 200Km to the nearest tyre centre before I did one these days, but if I was somewhere where this wasn't an option, I would and could.

Originally Posted by fitzy

Just on the subject of tyres.
If you can’t change a tyre you shouldn’t be on here.
There will be a forum somewhere for people like that.
I know it’s hard work and you won’t do it for fun, but hands up who of us has the truly manly skill of being able to strip and fit a tyre?

A bit harsh, i have only ever had one blowout in 33 years of driving and only had to use the spare maybe 4 times in my life mainly due to a nail or screw.
Modern wheel beads are pretty good at holding the tyre on.