Thread: Recovery Points

Originally Posted by turbo6i

the bar, about 4 inch's thick and about 3 feet long at the front car under the engine.
is this ok for using as a recovery point?

also i have a factory full bull bar, and it has two recovery points on it.
also i have a tow bar.

Are these points sufficient?
if not, where is the best place to begin.

thanks

1. That is just a brush bar & is made of very thin steel.

2. By factory bull bar, I assume you have the LR nudge bar. If so, no point on that is really suitable as a recovery point. The eyelets would be OK for a light tow but that's about it

3. Towbar - Hayman Reece style (square receiver)?
If so, a very good recovery point - just use the pin, not the ball. 4x4 shops also sell a recovery point that fits in these towbars.

Ladas was making recovery points a while back. I don't know if he's still doing these though.

+1 to the comments above. Its a worthwhile investment to get one of the recovery hitches that fit into the Hayman Reese bar. It's a lot easier to simply fit a shackle through the eyelet compared to trying to thread the pin when you're up to the waist in mud.

Yeah try a search - this has been discussed at length before.

up front : Factory brush bar /nudge bar thingy - no no. After-market recovery points attached to chassis - yes yes.

For front recovery points get two hooks or jate rings and bolt them to the chassis:





In the rear just get a shackle bracket for your towbar, available at any 4WD shop for around $60

Steering protector/Brushbar NO! NO!

Factory Bull Bar (if this is the one with wrap around bars for head lights) NO! NO!
as they have a pivot point and when the snatch strap/tow rope goes tight it forces the top of the bull bar into the grille.

If you have a standard front end with all the plastic shrouds and spoiler most after market tow points will not fit as they sit up and behind the spoiler and are offset to one side of the chassis rail. VERY difficult to access and will damage spoiler.
Another option is to remove the spoiler which runs from the plastic bumper end caps and then trim the end caps to the same level as the metal section of bumper. This will give you access to after market tow points and extra approach angle, Or you could find a bumper of a very early Disco which did not have as deep a spoiler/Skirt.

You could also add a 2nd tow point and use a bridle to spread the load, but these are not rated and there are no guarantees.

PS if you do find an after market rated tow point for a Disco with a standard front end bumper set up I would appreciate if you could let me know where you got it from.

regards

thanks for the info guys
i have the wrap around factory bull bar with the two thin recovery points under it.

so i gather that there is no reliable factory recovery point in front of vehicle

i have a heyman reece bull bar,
if i take the ball out of it, and put a shackle there, may do the trick?

i've gone through the posts, but still dont have many leads to where i can get front recovery points.

thanks

Originally Posted by turbo6i

so i gather that there is no reliable factory recovery point in front of vehicle

Not from the factory.

Originally Posted by turbo6i

i have a heyman reece TOW bar,
if i take the ball out of it, and put a shackle there, may do the trick?

It will work but I prefer to use the pin myself. The gooseneck should be OK but I have heard of the welds failing.

Originally Posted by turbo6i

i've gone through the posts, but still dont have many leads to where i can get front recovery points.

Here's the recovery points I mentioned earlier:
http://www.aulro.com/apc/showproduct...duct/944/cat/6
You might be out of luck getting them from Ladas but a PM won't hurt.

Go to a Cable and lifting equipment supplier such as Nobels as they have all types of hooks and plates that can be fitted as recovery points and they are tested and rated unlike many of the others that are around.

The Hayman Reese hitch is a good recovery point but most of the time you dont need to use a bow shakle as most Snatchies fit in the reciever and you just use the pin to secure it.

This is safer than using a shackle as any time you put a shackle in you are adding a potential projectile to the equation.