Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 19

Thread: Swivel Pin housing oil level check, "How To"

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    NSW , Pennant Hills
    Posts
    3,477
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Swivel Pin housing oil level check, "How To"

    someone here asked in one of the threads the other day on the "How to" of the swivel Pin housing oil Level check and filling of the housing with oil. So I opted to put this Tutorial together ,I'll also run it through spell checker incase "Ron Brigade" is around the corner,heheh.

    1) Ensure the Vehicle is standing on Level Ground , (in my case it wasn't possible , "my driveway is on a slope ,
    so it had to be said "I couldn't do it anywhere else , only for sake of the tutorial) and the handbrake is applied ,
    Wheel chog placed behind the rear wheel of the vehicle in gear.
    2) Underneath the Vehicle unscrew the Left-hand swivel pin housing level Plug , it has a square-section head and
    from memory was a 15mm socket
    3) the oil level should be up to the lower edge of the levelplug hole










    The Plastic Pump pictured below can be obtained from any auto shop ,and it screws into the Oil container,obtained from an auto shop such as Auto-one and they are relatively cheap , from memory it was about $15.00 or so,the clear plastic tubing attached to the Pump can also be obtained from bunnings hardware and it was a couple of dollars , attached to pump nuzzle for ease of pumping oil into the Swivel Pin housing , I found it was easier to fill the housing from the Level Plug check very slowly to avoid spilage.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Disco_owner; 2nd May 2008 at 11:22 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Top effort but a little skewed.

    the filler plug is the one right at the top.
    the level plug is the one just up from the halfway point and the drain plug is the hex one at the bottom.

    to check.

    open the level plug and if you have oil on the threads OR oil seeps out then your oil level is correct.

    to drain.

    remove the fill plug and then the drain plug

    to fill.
    on firm level ground with the vehicle chocked or supported level on 4 jack stands turn the steering to lock on the side that you are about to fill
    remove the fill plug (which should already be out)
    remove the level plug
    fill with 80/90wt gear oil (or as per your local requirements as derived from your users manuals/servicebooks) untill oil first apears at the level plug.
    replace the level plug after coating the threads in a non hardening thread sealant
    replace the fill plug after coating the threads in a non hardening thread sealant.

    Alternatively you can take the easy way out IF your running greased bearings (do this with oil filled bearings and your toast)

    follow the steps as prior upto and including "remove the fill plug"
    after that you
    cut the top off of the oneshot grease tube and squeeze contents into the filler hole
    coat the threads in a thread sealant
    replace filler plug
    paint both the filler and drain plugs (if drain plugs are fitted) in yellow paint and affix the supplied "one shot grease" sticker to the top corner of the corrosponding side of the windshield.


    its not usually a problem overfilling the hubs (some hubs do not have a level check bolt so you fill them to the bottom of the threads on the filler hole) as the oil will migrate past either the axle seal into the diff raising the level of the diff or past the bearing seal into and finally out of your hub seals. However about 1 time in enough to make it worth mentioning the oil will work past the swivel seal and allow crap to pick up onto the chrome and kill the seal.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    NSW , Pennant Hills
    Posts
    3,477
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for correction , my mistake on the Pic , I have now corrected this on Microsoft publisher and re-uploaded it here again , I think the Top effort was on your part , thanks again.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne, outer South East
    Posts
    2,283
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Good clear tutorial thanks
    That level check plug can be a bit tricky to get out because of the big bolt behind it ( what's that bolt for anyway ? ) - I found an 11mm open ended spanner works best.

    Now I've asked this before but I'm still a little confused.

    My Disco had the stickers saying the one shot grease was installed.
    However I the guy that previously serviced my car has put oil back in them. ( why i don't know )
    There's now oil leaking past one of the swivel hub seals.
    Can I just drain the oil and put a one shot grease back in there ?
    Or should I just keep topping up the oil until I can get around to doing the seal ?
    I keep checking the level by poking a bit of wire into the filler plug hole every couple of weeks, but it doesn't seem to drop much. I gues it's becoz the weep is only slight at this stage.
    Last edited by waynep; 2nd May 2008 at 08:48 AM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    the big bolt is the steering stop bolt. if you take it out(or shorten it) you get a better turning circle but is has some potenial risks so I advise against doing it un less your willing to take the chances.

    you can just put the one shot grease back in after draining out the oil without replacing the seal

    I think the oil is better but it does tend to do the leaky thing and the miniscule difference in the protection offered by the grease as opposed to oil so far as the CV is concerned its often easier to use the grease. That however does not apply if you are running the wheel bearings in oil.

    you can get a split seal to replace the existing one and theycan be fitted up in under 20mins per side in your driveway by anyone who can read and knows which end of a ringspanner to hold.

    most times the back to oil conversion is done because the oil seal on the diff side has failed and the diff oil is diluting the hub grease or because they want to run oil fed bearings.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne, outer South East
    Posts
    2,283
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    you can get a split seal to replace the existing one and theycan be fitted up in under 20mins per side in your driveway by anyone who can read and knows which end of a ringspanner to hold.
    .
    Where can I get some info on those Dave ?
    Sounds like the ducks nuts.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    they aint, I only use em IF I have to fix one on the side of the road and just dont have the time/space to do it properly.

    If you really want one MR automotive or four wheel drives down in melbourne should be able to supply it.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Is it me or has everyone missed the important step.
    Between opening the filler cap and putting oil in.
    Turn RH wheel onto right lock to uncover the CV chamber under the hole.
    Ditto LH.
    Regards Philip A

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,495
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Is it me or has everyone missed the important step.
    Between opening the filler cap and putting oil in.
    Turn RH wheel onto right lock to uncover the CV chamber under the hole.
    Ditto LH.
    Regards Philip A

    Urm

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Top effort but a little skewed.

    the filler plug is the one right at the top.
    the level plug is the one just up from the halfway point and the drain plug is the hex one at the bottom.

    to check.

    open the level plug and if you have oil on the threads OR oil seeps out then your oil level is correct.

    to drain.

    remove the fill plug and then the drain plug

    to fill.
    on firm level ground with the vehicle chocked or supported level on 4 jack stands turn the steering to lock on the side that you are about to fill
    remove the fill plug (which should already be out)
    remove the level plug
    fill with 80/90wt gear oil (or as per your local requirements as derived from your users manuals/servicebooks) untill oil first apears at the level plug.
    replace the level plug after coating the threads in a non hardening thread sealant
    replace the fill plug after coating the threads in a non hardening thread sealant.

    Alternatively you can take the easy way out IF your running greased bearings (do this with oil filled bearings and your toast)
    did you mean that bit?

    You should do it before you open the filler plug because If like mine your underbody isnt exactly surgicaly sterile type clean you might drop something in there when you turn it to lock.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Avoca Beach
    Posts
    14,152
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Whoops missed it sorry mate!
    But at least it is emphasised.
    I usually wire brush around the filler plug before opening, not that I have done it for years as I now have one shot.
    regards Philip A

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!