Top effort but a little skewed.
the filler plug is the one right at the top.
the level plug is the one just up from the halfway point and the drain plug is the hex one at the bottom.
to check.
open the level plug and if you have oil on the threads OR oil seeps out then your oil level is correct.
to drain.
remove the fill plug and then the drain plug
to fill.
on firm level ground with the vehicle chocked or supported level on 4 jack stands turn the steering to lock on the side that you are about to fill
remove the fill plug (which should already be out)
remove the level plug
fill with 80/90wt gear oil (or as per your local requirements as derived from your users manuals/servicebooks) untill oil first apears at the level plug.
replace the level plug after coating the threads in a non hardening thread sealant
replace the fill plug after coating the threads in a non hardening thread sealant.
Alternatively you can take the easy way out IF your running greased bearings (do this with oil filled bearings and your toast)
follow the steps as prior upto and including "remove the fill plug"
after that you
cut the top off of the oneshot grease tube and squeeze contents into the filler hole
coat the threads in a thread sealant
replace filler plug
paint both the filler and drain plugs (if drain plugs are fitted) in yellow paint and affix the supplied "one shot grease" sticker to the top corner of the corrosponding side of the windshield.
its not usually a problem overfilling the hubs (some hubs do not have a level check bolt so you fill them to the bottom of the threads on the filler hole) as the oil will migrate past either the axle seal into the diff raising the level of the diff or past the bearing seal into and finally out of your hub seals. However about 1 time in enough to make it worth mentioning the oil will work past the swivel seal and allow crap to pick up onto the chrome and kill the seal.



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, I have now corrected this on Microsoft publisher and re-uploaded it here again 

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