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Thread: Fitting MANN+HUMMEL Provent to a TD5 110

  1. #1
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    Fitting MANN+HUMMEL Provent to a TD5 110

    Thanks to Dave for posting up the way he fitted his. Which can be found here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...epertator.html

    However, Stuart (Iggy) came over this arvo, so I thought I would post some pics of the EASY way to do it...

    Time required: 1.5-2 hrs (this included taking pics and drinking beer )

    Parts WE used (you can do it differently)
    1x Provent housing and element
    1x One way valve
    about 400mm of 1/2" hose
    about 750mm of 1" hose
    8x hose clamps (4 for each size)
    1x Brass 1/2" hose tail/barb fitting (1/4" BSPT thread)
    50x50x3mm aluminium angle
    3x M8 bolts

    Tools needed:
    8mm spanner/socket
    12&13 mm spanners
    24mm spanner
    screwdriver
    Drill + drill bits
    1/4" BSPT tap (not 100% necessary)
    Brazing equipment

    Parts we SHOULD have had but didn't - 19mm to 1" adaptor (x2), Brass or plastic.

    Pics and method to follow...

  2. #2
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    Firstly, mark the point on the turbo drain pipe where you want to tee into it. It is hard to see, but there is a circular mark on the white sticker.


    Remove the drain pipe from the turbo (8mm spanner (2 bolts) for the turbo end, 24mm spanner for the other end).
    Drill and tap it to take the brass fitting.
    Screw the fitting in.
    I then brazed/silver soldered the fitting to the pipe, to make sure it stays in place, and stays leak free. NOTE - you can use a piece of 1/2" tube instead.

    The finished oil drain. Once cooled, can be refitted.



    You also need to remove the engine cover and the standard 19mm breather hose. Here is the engine with it removed (rocker cover breather at top of pic, intake inlet at bottom):


    This is the way the one-way valve should be connected to the provent:


    We drilled a hole in the existing bracket to mount the aluminium angle bracket to, to which in turn the provent is mounted to. Hopefully fairly straighforward for everyone to follow?



    Now it is a simple matter of connecting the hoses up. First the drain:




    of the 2 1" connections, the upper is the inlet, and needs to be connected to the rocker cover, the lower is the outlet, and needs to be connected to the intake. The TD5 has a 19 mm breather hose, and the Provent has 1" fittings. We didn't have any 19mm to 1" adaptors, so simply fitted the 19 mm hose inside the 1" hose, and clamped the two together. It will be fine until some adaptors can be fitted.


    Job finished. It will probably look a bit neather if longer sections of 19mm are used, and the adaptors placed directly at the entrance/exit to the Provent.



    Thanks for coming over Stuart - don't forget to fill out the data sheet and start recording the necessary data!!!

  3. #3
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    Please note - in the above pics, the inlet and outlet to the provent are sitting on the turbo heat shield. This should be fine, if the hoses yyou use are rated to a high enough temperature, HOWEVER, it is probably better to incorporate a right-angle bracket into the 19-25mm adaptor, so that the hoses can be routed differently.

  4. #4
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    Nice nearly exactly as Id envisioned it happening for the mounting on that side...

    and the way youve braised into the turbo pipe is exactly as I would have done it for the return from the provent with the return coming from the other side..

    Id seriously consider wrapping your lines with thermal insulation tape tho ESP the return line, its looking like it runs awfully close to the turbo.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
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    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    Nice nearly exactly as Id envisioned it happening for the mounting on that side...

    and the way youve braised into the turbo pipe is exactly as I would have done it for the return from the provent with the return coming from the other side..

    Id seriously consider wrapping your lines with thermal insulation tape tho ESP the return line, its looking like it runs awfully close to the turbo.
    Thanks Dave. The oil drain line is quite a long way from the turbo, photo is deceptive. I have my concerns about the lines running over the heat shield, however they are pirtek super duper incredibly thick hoses, and they will be rerouted when Stuart gets the extre fittings.

  6. #6
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    unless they have the steel braiding under the outer layer (and Im working from memory here) they have a maximum heat tolerance of about 180 degrees although that is supposedly at the rated pressure. My concern would be with it becoming porous and dripping oil on the turbo.. and in my case the pie warmer (and lets face it with my apatiete I need all the cooking space I can get)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
    Iggy Guest
    Thanks Ben for the work you did today, could never have done it by myself. Got home and checked it out and everything looks good no leaks from the slip joints. Opened provent to check the filter and a fine oil mist escaped, so everything working great. I will post pics when I get the fittings and tidy it up. Have to go back to Rovertech next week to pick up some sealant, so will slip the money for the hoses under your front door.
    Cheers Iggy

  8. #8
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    Great work men!!!
    Ben,any idea how much oil vapour equates to oil returned???? I guess it depends on the health of the mojo!!!! Mine is quite a heavy breather but uses no oil at all.
    When I get mine Im inclined to set it up to a catch can and discard contents caught.As part of your work I can record how much oil is lost.
    Im thinking the vapourised stuff is best rejected from the engine and replaced with new oil.
    What are your thoughts???
    Happy to go this way and keep it that way unless oil loss is exsessive.
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LandyAndy View Post
    Great work men!!!
    Ben,any idea how much oil vapour equates to oil returned???? I guess it depends on the health of the mojo!!!! Mine is quite a heavy breather but uses no oil at all.
    When I get mine Im inclined to set it up to a catch can and discard contents caught.As part of your work I can record how much oil is lost.
    Im thinking the vapourised stuff is best rejected from the engine and replaced with new oil.
    What are your thoughts???
    Happy to go this way and keep it that way unless oil loss is exsessive.
    Andrew
    Hi Andy,

    MANN+HUMMEL DO NOT reccommend fitting a catch can.

    There is nothing at all wrong with the oil you lose through the breather, so it would be a waste to throw it away. It is generated by one of 3 mechanisms:
    Evaporation-condensation (the smallest particles)
    Shear (ring blow-by) - medium-sized particles
    Crank-splashing - largest particles (droplets)

    As your engine is set up now, the oil will become slightly more viscous between services, the recirculation that the provent will provide should reduce this effect.

    How much mass you lose depends on the engine, but somewhere around 500mg/m3 (oil concentration in blow-by). I can't give you a mass per km or kwh off the top of my head.

  10. #10
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    No probs Ben
    Will get it set up like Iggys,just got to get a mate to do the braizing.
    Zaust manifold needs to come off, an EGR kit I have fitted, and engine saver at the same time,plus a well overdue service,25000ks since the last.I do run synthetic oil!!!!! Just had my shed chokas with that trailer!!!!
    TIME TO SHIFT FOCUS!!!!
    Andrew
    DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
    Midlife Crisis.Im going to get stuck into mine early and ENJOY it.
    Snow White MY14 TDV6 D4
    Alotta Fagina MY14 CAT 12M Motor Grader
    2003 Stacer 525 Sea Master Sport
    I made the 1 millionth AULRO post

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