300tdi Viscous Fan Bearing - SOLUTIONS!

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Originally Posted by rick130

All you have to do is get the cover to around 100*C with a soft flame on a blow lamp (the old spit and pop test is sufficient, when water spits and pops off the cover it's hot enough, no more heat is warranted, it will only hurt things) and the bearing will fall out.

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Thanks Rick, but that's assuming you have a suitable blow torch available, I do have one incidentally, but there are others who will only have a gas camping stove at their disposal.

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I've replaced many bearings in race car hubs, gearboxes and diff side plates this way and it's dead simple and quick.

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Same, but in that case of a bearing that's exposed to the elements as the fan hub bearing is, there can be a fair amount of corrosion between the alloy case and the steel bearing outer and that can take a bit of shaking loose.

The crucial point is, obtaining the exact height of the replacement bearing's hub face from the timing case covers mounting face, I am interested in what others have done here to get that measurement right.
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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

The crucial point is, obtaining the exact height of the replacement bearing's hub face from the timing case covers mounting face, I am interested in what others have done here to get that measurement right.
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Authur. Open this link and look at the third photo at the bottom of post one. When I did mine 13 months ago this is what I used and it worked fine. Belt still like new.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...solutions.html

After an exhaustive search, I had all but given up trying to find a bearing for for my fan. I rang Koyo who could not help, but they gave me a phone number of a mob called Bearing Wholesalers.

They were able to help with a bearing. It is a generic bearing that has a spigot on each end. He said that it is designed for a lot of different applications, one being industrial pumps. For this reason it should be available well into the future.

He also told me that the spigots were not hardened as they are designed to be cut to suit different applications, so can be cut with a hacksaw.

The part number is FPS 72. Although Koyo could not help me he said that they have a P/N C9DE8530C.

The bloke I spoke to was very helpful. His name is Shane and the contact number is 94662377. The cost was $35

WARNING ABOUT MY PREVIOUS POST. I have just removed the old bearing from the housing and to my horror I have found that the spigot at the front of the bearing is only 16 mm. My old bearing came out of a Falcon water pump and the rear spigot(the one I cut off) is 18mm.

As I had not removed the pulley flange I just assumed it was 18mm. Any one who has access to a lathe could machine it to 16mm.

Below is the bearing in question. As it is now Saturday I have to wait until Monday to ring to see if there one with a 16mm shaft. I will not be holding my breath though.

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/2695/img8028vc.jpg

You probably want the FPS61 universal bearing, that has a 16mm (15.918mm) shaft and a 30mm OD body. Here's a list of w/p bearing sizes I gorgled up (not including FPS61 I just measured one of mine):

Automotive Bearings - Water Pump - Nationwide Group

No this is no good. The outer diameter of the original is 38mm, which is what my replacement is. It is just the spigot where the fan hub fits is wrong.

Just had the timing cover off to do the timing belt and decided to do the front pulley bearing - the old one wasn't squealing but it was very dry and had a fair bit of movement (at 385k km). I followed the advice from roverrescue and bought a new EB Falcon water pump. Just as well, as the puller that I made for taking the old flange off did not work at all, it put a lot of pressure on the flange threads and the thing snapped in half. In future, I would advise first cutting off the flange through the shaft, (underneath the flange), then just pressing out the remaining portion in the press. That way you wont be over stressing the TC cover, and you will probably end up with a spare flange. The old bearing is toast anyway so there is no ultimate damage being done.

Other notes:
The new Ford (EA, EB, ED) bearing I got from Burson's fit perfectly. It is made by Motorgear, part number WP1040. Cost $71 (on 25/04/2013)

Install: To get the flange height right, measure the thickness of the new flange (in this case 9mm) leaves 2mm to play with. The original measurement of the flange height in my TC cover was a hair under the quoted 11mm measured on a digital caliper - on a standard caliper it would look spot on I guess. Anyway, I found some 2mm material (a bit of aluminium flat bar in this case), and used it when pressing the new bearing and flange assembly into place - basically sat it on top of the TC cover nose, so when pressing in the assembly it acted as a stop, leaving the flange height at exactly 11mm. (If your new flange is 8mm, then use a 3mm spacer etc).

I did use a really big socket under the cover as support when pressing to remove any stress from the aluminium - all the pressure was on the back of the thick core of the TC cover.

I can say it was a job worth doing, along with the new AC tensioner and idler bearings that run on the cover, the engine now sounds very nice - no whirring etc.

Finally, the boss of this new flange is just a hair too tight in the pulley, would have been too tight a fit I think - I relieved the inside hole a fraction (gently using a die grinder, then finishing with light abrasive paper). Made sure I installed using some anti-seize.

big trouble finding it to be replaced

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Originally Posted by extreme4x4ms

big trouble finding it to be replaced

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I would like to know practically the problem.
Is your problem the finding of a suitable bearing?

Same question translated to Italian.

Mi piacerebbe sapere in pratica il problema. è il tuo problema il ritrovamento di un cuscinetto adatto?

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Hello ladies and gents,

I've read all the replies to this original thread and I have my own little story to tell on this topic.
Firstly can I say that I am a highly experienced diesel mechanic with 25 years experience on everything from Land Rovers, to Caterpillar mining trucks. I have 3 Land Rovers, all with 300tdi's and I've done all the fan bearings without any problems.

The part number mentioned earlier, Koyo 88580 2RS, It's actually 885802 RS. The 885802 bearing is a good number listed with different manufacturers, but try getting your hands on one at a reasonable price. If you are game to source one direct from China then go for it.... I'm not.

Now this bearing we need, it's not metric, it's imperial. The dimensions are 38.19mm OD, 53.975mm outer race length, 15.926mm shaft diameter. In imperial this equates to 1.5" diameter, 2 1/8" outer race length and 5/8" shaft diameter.
For Land Rover to mount a fan pulley to the front timing case of the tdi they had to approach a bearing manufacturer for an exclusive licensed deal. But why reinvent the wheel by manufacturing a whole new metric bearing for a metric engine when the cheapest and easiest way was to use an endless supply of existing imperial bearings that will do the job.

I've done all this research on bearings years ago because I found the bearing shops to be useless, so to cut a long story short, just about every single John Deere tractor water pump out there uses the bearing we are looking for.
I hate seeing my fellow Land Rover friends being ripped off by purchasing $70 aftermarket (Chinese) Ford Falcon water pumps etc, or $100 bearings off ebay. So save yourself a lot of time and money, go to your local John Deere parts store and purchase a genuine JD9257 water pump bearing. The last one I bought a couple of months back cost $26aud
I can guarantee 100% that it is a genuine Japanese made Koyo bearing in a John Deere box.

You will need to cut the excess shaft spindles off to the correct length required. I have a lathe in my shed which makes life easy to get it 100% right.
Now, if you somehow damage the timing case or pulley flange then you are doing it wrong, or don't have the right tools. Heating aluminium isn't always a good idea either because it's unnecessary and it can cause warpage. There won't be any corrosion between the bearing and timing cover either because it's a perfect pressed fit so how can water and other contamination ever get in there in the first place ? This bearing will press out perfectly (cold) if you are using the right tools. Sorry but I can't put 25 years of trade experience on how to do it into an online post.

I hope this helps, and I hope it puts an end to the bearing mystery.