300tdi Viscous Fan Bearing - SOLUTIONS!

Thanks Onyamatey, I have taken the liberty to prune your posting down a bit.

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Originally Posted by onyamatey

The part number --- Koyo --- 885802 RS. --- Imperial, 1.5" diameter, 2 1/8" outer race length and 5/8" shaft diameter.

--- just about every single John Deere tractor water pump out there uses the bearing we are looking for.
--- The last one I bought a couple of months back cost $26aud
I can guarantee 100% that it is a genuine Japanese made Koyo bearing in a John Deere box.
You will need to cut the excess shaft spindles off to the correct length required.--- lathe --- to get it 100% right.

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This is a spot on bit of information, well worth printing out and stapling into your parts book or work shop manual.

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Heating aluminium isn't always a good idea either because it's unnecessary and it can cause warpage. --- This bearing will press out perfectly (cold) if you are using the right tools.

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Originally Posted by wrinklearthur

I haven't got around to it this yet, but I am going to heat the cover before removing the bearing.

To do this I am going to use; some leather gloves, a double burner gas camp stove, a suitable tray that will allow the cover to be submerged and some coolant mix ( to raise the boiling point a bit ).

Bring the fluid to boil and push the bearing out, hopefully easily as the alloy cover should expand more than the steel on the outside of the bearing, and then push the new bearing in.

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Point taken about the warpage, but I have seen on steel to alloy, a reaction between the two metals, all be it only shallow, that bond can take a lot of pressure to crack.
With a twenty ton press and some nicely made die's, I have seen alloy mushroom before the bearing started to give.
Warming the alloy with boiling water could then be the only option to someone with out a workshop press.

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I think the most critical point to watch when reinstalling the bearing and the flange, is getting the distance right from the face of the fan hub to the mounting face on the back of the cover. Has anyone already got a accurate measurement for this ?

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How did you go about getting that measurement spot on?

And Welcome aboard to the forum, if you haven't done so yet, find your way over to the introductions thread and say hi.

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FWIW 100*C wont warp a case IMO and is far less likely to crack a housing as can sometime happen when press fitting steel into aluminium.

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Originally Posted by rick130

FWIW 100*C wont warp a case IMO and is far less likely to crack a housing as can sometime happen when press fitting steel into aluminium.

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I have to agree here. My self being a retired spanner, I have heated hundreds of alloy housings and never had a problem.

Good info onyamatey.

My experience. Second hand Disco1 Tdi300.

Slightly loose fan bearing. One of the four lobes on the stubb axle also broken. Advice from someone who patches/rebuilds the Tdi300 timing covers as part of their living said people leave replacement of bad bearing too late and risk shearing off part of the housing.

Tried a number of places for the bearing, no luck.

Spoke to MR Automotive about getting a bearing. They asked if I had any broken lobes. Said they supply a better quality shaft with stronger lobes and bearing already in place. Gulped at the price, somewhere under $200 from memory, but what the heck. I'd probably buy another one, but get a discount for repeat customage :)

Tried setting the timing cover up in a cheap press to remove the old bearing – too fiddly in a basic home shop. In the end I craddled the timing cover in my left arm (I'm right handed) like you would hold a baby (sorry for the analogy), such that the back was in my view and the front was facing the ground. Placed an appropriate sized socket on the back of the bearing and with a medium hammer started giving the socket a few hard pounds. After about four whacks the bearing showed some very slight movement. Continued pounding, with removal just getting easier and easier. Make sure your socket has clearance :)

I put the new bearing with shaft in the freezer (fridge would probably do). Put the timing cover in the sun for half an hour.

To install the bearing.

Do not simply support the timing cover only by the edges and at the same time try inputting the bearing. You risk breaking the centre of your cover.

I made a pedestal out of a very short piece of pipe by sitting it upright on the concrete floor, then placed a small scrap of plate on top of the pipe. I sat the timing cover on the pedestal, such that the external face of the cover was up – with the pipe and scrap plate sitting squarely under the bearing hole - think of a mushroom. My method left the edges of the cover in the air with all support directly under the point into which the bearing was being inserted. Grabbed the cold stub axle with bearing already fitted by manufacturer, and tapped it into place. The scrap steel cap on top of the pipe stopped the bearing insertion flush with the inside of the timing cover. Job done and less fuss than I thought it would be.

PS found this

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...oval-tool.html

Hi All,

The wisdom of this forum has gone as far as Denmark and I have been following the topic of replacing the fan bearing with great interest.

I have 300 tdi with a screaming bearing and it is about time to do something about it.

I have located a JD 9257 bearing in Denmark and my plan is to cut the shaft below the flange, press out the bearing from the cover and afterwards press out the remaining part of the shaft from the flange.

I am a bit in doubt regarding the installation process - is it press in the new bearing into the cover, and the afterwards press in the flange over the shaft or?

If i follow the process descreption above how do make sure the height of the flange is correct. I know the number of mm it should be above the cover, but i fear that it will be difficult to control the press so precisly?

Thanks in advance.

Christopher Halling

Hi Christopher.

You say 'cut' the shaft below the flange. Do you mean 'pull' the flange? Pulling the flange would leave shaft in one piece. Maybe I'm not understanding your description.

Have you considered trying my way first to remove the flange/shaft/bearing in one movement?

Hi

After as the bearing has failed my idea was to cut the shaft under the flange in order to ge a nice leveled surface when pushing out the bearing and secondly I would not have to find an old viscoses to make a tool from, but could use the press to remove the last piece of the shaft and I could support the flange with a piece of tube.

I addition to my reply above - a important peices of information is that my new bearing does not come with a flange, so I have to reuse the old flange.

Thanks for the help.

Hi Christopher.

For me the flange is the part with the four screw holes. Looks like it can be pulled off the shaft, but I do not.

What tools do you actually have? To me it sounds like you might only need a hammer, some sockets, and a puller.

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