Poor excuse.
Congratulations, they look cute when they're asleep.
Gday Guys sorry I havent been on here for a while as my wife and I just had our first child her name is Sheridan
Gday rar110 I have a range rover classic front diff on my defender which would allow me to run air bags upfront but I wont at this stage as it can be unstable unless you have a controller that can adjust the springs very quickly air bag man raved on about how I can have a solenoid valve fitted which i could switch on to allow the air to flow from one side to the other GREAT when you are on a level track that has deep washouts etc but when a side slope comes along the load changes and the air is forced into the wrong side which can cause rollovers, one day when I have a bit more cash i might build my own controller (I'm in the automation industry)
Isuzurover dont know if you are still keen on the idea but here is some info of original air spring replacement for 110/130
the brackets above the spring are 63mm
Poor excuse.
Congratulations, they look cute when they're asleep.
Scott
Well finally took the defender for a test run at glasshouse click the links below for videos the suspension worked real well cant wait to get back out there enjoy
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0Q6JqSjQZI"]YouTube - red 110 defender v8 glasshouse[/ame] (Landrover)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C_PsYmvyJW0&NR=1"]YouTube - red 110 defender v8 glasshouse steps second go[/ame] (Landrover)
YouTube - bjh81birdman's Channel (Landrover)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYhTZWe9P9g"]YouTube - 7L Hemi Jeep JK Incab Glasshouse MTNS[/ame] (Jeep)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iKTjLjQaWcc"]YouTube - 7lt Hemi JK Jeep and Red 110 Defender Glass House Mountains Trip 31 Oct 2009[/ame] (Jeep)
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sM-YfrP_VVo"]YouTube - 7L Hemi JK Jeep little Red Glasshouse MTNS[/ame] (Jeep decent down Little Red)
Hi everyone.
I have a 130 Defender Big Cab and use it to carry my dingo and tow my 1.5t excavator so I need a good suspension. I have bought a set of the Airbagman bellows style springs for the back of the ute but have had them for at least 12 months and still havent decided how to do the conversion. I have also bought a pair of ride height control valves from an Iveco and planned to install them on the rear to automatically adjust the springs with a compressor and air tank permanently monted in the car.
My biggest concern is whether I should leave the factory twin coils in place on the axle and install the airbags slightly inboard so I always have the assistance of the springs (to take load from the bags most of the time), or whether I should install the bags in the position of the springs and rely on them entirely. Dingo and other components carried in the tray regularly comes to 1.5tons but the ute is driven lightly loaded about 50% of the time.
I had a set of manually adjustaed bags in the back of my Disco2 for towing the trailer but the hassle of adjusting the pressure for a constantly changing load sent me nuts and just took too long. It has been suggested that I will be able to remove the rear sway bar for better wheel travle off road, but how do I set the height controllers to let the wheels travel freely when I want to and give tight control other times?????
Anyone have any thoughts or experience with active systems?
BTW, looking on the net at control systems in the states, there are some incredible digital controllers for the transport industry but the cost are just as incredible.
BTW2: If you are still contemplating the cab extension, mine was done professionally but is still a bit of a dogs breakfast and I think if you could see how it was done, you could do it neater if given the time. Seems that the coach builder only had a stick welder to do the sheetmetal. Let me know if you want to see pics as the roof lining is still out. They cut the roof about 100mm behind the windscreen,fitted a flat sheet and hand made the rediused edges
Thanks all.
96 130 Defender Big Cab 300Tdi, 2.4mt steel tray, winch, dual 80lt fuel, running 30% diesel 70% WVO. Hand made centre & roof consoles, bucket drivers seat, LED everything, Thermo Fans/ water spray, 2.5mt ramps BW tray rails, GT Radial MTs.
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Firestone are probably the largest manufacturer of air springs. Using their terminology, the 2 main styles are reversible sleeve style (like shown in posts above) and convoluted style (can be single, double, triple, etc. convoluted).
Both styles have bellows (the name given to the flexible rubber member that contains air under pressure to act as a spring and support the load.
The reversible sleeve style has a piston, which can be shaped to change the effective area (pressure required = load / eff area) over the travel range. These generally can have a greater range of travel compared to the convoluted style. The effective area of the convoluted type varies widely with height. Because of this the reversible sleeve style is better suited to 4x4 suspension. The convoluted type is ok for a helper spring.
Sorry I don't know anything about the Iveco ride height control valves.
I have the Airock system. It uses sensors connected to the suspension arms with adjustable links. In basic terms, the ride height of each air spring is calibrated by adjusting the height of each spring after the system is installed.
It has 3 modes: offroad, highway and freeway.
In offroad mode only, buttons can be used to change the height, pitch and sideways tilt. Above 32 km/h (20 mph) the height will return to normal height. These can't be changed in the other modes. It uses the speed sensor for active mode, which counteracts body roll when cornering or pitching during braking - active mode doesn't operate at lower speeds.
Time for some stupid questions...
The centre bolt clamps the bellows to the piston, correct?
All the conversions on here seem to have a female thread and a shcs to clamp the bellows to the piston. My air springs (W01-358-5426) have a bolt protruding from the piston. I assume I can cut the bolt off flush with the baseplate?
im thinking from memory that you can cut it off flush but dont take my word for it i have not done one for a long time
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						The bladder has a female thread for a bolt.
You will find that what you have been supplied is a length of 1/2" UNC threaded rod that is screwed into the bladder. It extends beyond the lower surface of the piston so that it can be used to secure the assembly to your mount. You can shorten the threaded rod if you wish and use a nut to secure the bladder to the piston. Then use another method to secure the assembly to your mount - remember that on full compression the bladder will roll down the piston and beyond the outer lip at the base.
BTW, the piston diameter increase at its base is to increase the spring rate when the bladder is on that part of the piston.
Edit:
You can see the threaded rod in the pic I posted earlier. If you cut the threaded rod the nut will go up at the top of the recess (or you could use a bolt. Only friction between the bladder and piston are holding them together without a bolt or nut and threaded rod. You can separate them but be warned, take care not to extend the bladder as you will have trouble getting it back to the working position on your vehicle.

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