Thread: 12v compressors.

making the T setup was easy the bottom piece starting from the tank is made from

brass3/4 BSP male-3/4 BSP male joiner
brass3/4 BSP female-female-female t piece

from that hangs
brass3/4 BSP male-1/2 BSP female reducer
brass1/2 BSP male-male-male T piece with
plated 1/2 BSP Female-Nitto female QD and
plated 1/2 BSP Female-1/2 BSP female full flow Ball-cock valve
plated 1/2 BSP Male-Nitto male QD.

standing from the other side of the 3/4 BSP female Tpiece is
brass 3/4 BSP Male-3/4 BSP male joiner
plated 3/4 BSP female-3/4 BSP female female full flow Ball-cock valve
(all of the above is thread sealed with loctite 567)
and the Y pipe is welded onto a black 3/4 BSP male-3/4 BSP male joiner

I have a 3/4 black plastic irrigation bung in the end of the 3/4 ball-cock as a dust cap and a 1/2inch pipe cover over the male nitto ATM.

the original concept of the whole thing was always to have a second larger tank hooked up to it using the smaller tank as a wet tank and a "surge" tank to stop the motor loading up and when going from one tyre to the next while using it as a tyre inflator.

You got me thinking again about the York I have, I was looking at hanging off the Isuzu, but maybe I could install it under the back as a seperate unit keeping the Firestone compressor as a backup (I have been told it's from the same factory as the ARB unit).

The Firestone is too slow for air tools and can be painfully slow when operating the air springs.

Now where did I put the old starter motors? from memory there were three of them here somewhere.

I kept the air tank from my first electric compressor, might use that to suppliment the 10 litre tank already under the body if there's room.

Glenn

I've only just seen this Dave. Very impressive

what about driving a compressor off the pto, I reckon it would tuck up nice under there. any thoughts Dave?
cheers
blaze

Dave, from personal experience, the hose between the york and the tank will eventually fail due to heat. It would be a good idea to replace that section with high temp air hose (looks like black rubber hose) or copper.

that is high temp air line (150 degrees operating temp from memory) and as its done the cape trip, and was only a prototype that hasnt busted yet, Im not too stressed about it...

Eventually the startermotor might get replaced with a 6hp winch motor

The Most Powerful DC Air Compressors in the World
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Might has become a Must....

after just over 50hrs worth of work

the stater motor gave up in most spectacular, nearly set fire to the 160l fueltank, fashion.


Very exciting start to the day.

The fault lies with the air pressure regulator switch siezing in the on position which let it build up I dont know how much pressure as the pressure gauge pegged at 200psi.

Once the compressor stalled the motor it was just a case of inevitability that the poor much abused series starter motor turned into a very very very effecient heater drawing the pair of fully charged n70's down to below 8volts.

must have taken me about 3 seconds once the volt gauge dropped off the end to be stopped fire exinguisher out and be working at the back to try and kill the feed.

none of the main wiring melted and the batteries have tested good.

anyone got a spare stater motor?