Thread: Chain or Snatch Strap?

I wonder what the rating of a snatch strap would have to be to recover an m1 at 68 tonnes if it was belly down in mud

Re your problems with snatch straps, these are not different to chains, except chains shock load which does more damage, but as you say, the flying broken points are a problem with straps. Love the idea of the restraining straps - perhaps a spliced loop of plasma to another point on the vehicle.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

Re your problems with snatch straps, these are not different to chains, except chains shock load which does more damage, but as you say, the flying broken points are a problem with straps. Love the idea of the restraining straps - perhaps a spliced loop of plasma to another point on the vehicle.

You can just loop a winch extension strap over the diff housing, an extension strap or tree protector strap has some weight in it, unlike dyneema rope, which would slow down a flying recovery point a bit better than the Dyneema.
My problem with snatch straps as opposed to chains is that the energy built up in the strap can be minor or WTF, there are so many variables that it is impossible to predict how much enrgy is enough to do the job safely, it is hit and miss.
I only use a chain for snigging logs or debris off the track and only for towing if I have no other choice, Regards Frank.

Well over the years I originally used chains and then snatch straps and there is no way I will use chains again.

Up until about 2004, I had never even heard of snatch straps until a bunch of us organised to met up, after swapping info on AULRO. We met up at a quarry halfway between the Gold Coast and Beenleigh.

This not only lead to me witnessing them in use, for the first time, but the meet also eventually lead to the forming of the GCLRO Club, where I have had plenty of opportunities to rescue and be rescued, using snatch straps and they are by far much easier on the vehicles ( and the drivers ) and IMO are far less likely to break than chains.

For instance, not long after I bought my current RR, we were on a casual trip and, thanks to the crap tyres on my RR, I could not do one of the creek crossing. So I had to take a run at a slope on the other side of the creek and then get snatched over the top from there.

Someone in a Defender came to my rescue and attempted to snatch me up the bank, but on the first attempt, no matter how times he took up the slack and as hard as he tried, the Defender just couldn’t move me.

On the second attempt, I took the RR out of park and the Defender had no problem snatching me over the top of the bank.

I hate to think of the damage that would have been done if we were using a chain.

On the second attempt, I took the RR out of park and the Defender had no problem snatching me over the top of the bank.

Pretty common that one.
I now always try and remember to ask the driver is it in neutral with handbrake off via CB immediately before the snatch. I always try a very gentle snatch first time to ascertain how stuck, and I always warn the stuck guy when I am going to snatch and with how much force.

I prefer this with a snatch while with a winch I will ask the wincher whether he prefers me to assist or leave in neutral . If assist OK I use just a tiny bit of power so that I don't overrun the rope.

Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by Tank

The problem I have with snatch straps is the amount of energy created in stretching (of the snatch strap) is an unknown.

Energy = 1/2 mass * velocity squared. Twice the speed on the towing vehicle gives four times the energy.

Force involved will be closely related to the stretch in the strap.
Energy involved is 1/2k * strap extension squared. K is the stiffness of the strap.
If you get twice the strap stretch, then you've got twice the force but four times the energy working to extract the vehicle.

This is why snatch straps are much more effective at recovery than chains. They store energy and can give it back with a more constant force when the stuck vehicle needs it. Chains don't store much energy and just transmit shock loads.

First pull in low first at idle and see if it comes out. Work from there taking all usual precautions and re-evaluate if it's not working.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I now always try and remember to ask the driver is it in neutral with handbrake off via CB immediately before the snatch.

So do I.

It’s just that I forgot to ask myself had I taken it out of park.