must remember that I turn off loading images occasionally when Im browsing some of the less mature sites I visit.....
must remember that I turn off loading images occasionally when Im browsing some of the less mature sites I visit.....
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Folks,
Just for the record - After I explained to Dave the setup of a Series 1 10 inch brake - ie (They are not dual leading type) - they are simple leading/trailing type with an anchor and spring at base, single cylinder at top pushing both shoes, leading shoe has spring attached which goes to post on backing plate behind trailing shoe, he has concluded that it won't make any difference (diddly squat to quote him verbatim) that the rear brakes are on the wrong side of the vehicle.
(My brakes are individually setup correctly - it's just that the driver's rear should be on the passenger side and visa versa)
Just to be sure, Dave is coming over to inspect them, but it looks like I can leave them as they are.
It appears the jamming issue lies elsewhere, with the leading theory being a blockage in the brake lines, as Glen has suggested all along.
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
1993 BMW R100LT
2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black
I am not sure that I agree with Dave - there is a good reason why the pull off spring is applied only to the leading shoe. Note that on the 11" brakes with one leading/one trailing shoe, there is a spring between the cylinder ends of the shoes to pull the shoes back against the adjusters. With no pull off spring on the cylinder end of the leading shoe, it will always be rubbing lightly against the drum, and all it needs to lock is a very slight increase in friction. It is possible there is a contributing factor, such as slow return of the fluid. The test would be to get the brakes to lock up, and see if opening the bleeder releases them.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Thanks John - Dave initially wanted me to eliminate all other possibilities before he does the press job (if we were to switch them back), but then said it wouldn't matter anyway that they are around the wrong way. He might change his mind when he inspects them - I'll make him aware of your point here.
I think it's best to eliminate these other possible contributing factors first - then swap the entire brake back to the correct side, so everything is spot on.
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
1993 BMW R100LT
2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black
In order to get my rear brakes on the correct side, so that the leading shoe doesn't continue to jam, I have been looking here...
Axles + Driveline
Is it the item I've listed below, about half way down the page, that I need to get hold of ? .....
AXLE HALFSHAFT BEARING
1954-58 PAIR (+A$109)
Anything else I should order to do this properly, eg....
COLLER - REAR AXLE
REAR AXLE RETAINING COLLER, ONE FITTED TO EACH REAR AXLE HALF SHAFT.
SUIT ALL MODELS 1948-57
I can't find any seals - do I need seals too??????![]()
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
1993 BMW R100LT
2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black
Nope. That is a front bearing.
Where the collars are is where the hub seals and bearings are.
CC
Yes, there is a seal and possibly the sleeve it runs on may need replacing - sorry, I don't have a S1 parts book, just looking at the workshop manual (I have an old Autopress manual that covers both S1 & S2).
The reason for replacing these is simply that it is a pain to replace them due to the need to press the retaining collar on and off.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
I think a ford rear bearing fits the series 1. I could be wrong though
I would steer clear of NOS rear bearings as the grease may be past it's best by now. I woud say the bearing is still current at the bearing places
The seals would be still current also. The collars that are made today are a
bit iffy on the fit also. You may have to try a few to get the right fit......
OK guys, thanks for this info. So - maybe this stuff is what I need?
1) COLLER - REAR AXLE
REAR AXLE RETAINING COLLER, ONE FITTED TO EACH REAR AXLE HALF SHAFT.
SUIT ALL MODELS 1948-57
2) WHEEL BEARINGS - REAR
SUIT REAR AXLE ON ALL MODELS, TWO DIFFERENT TYPES WERE USED.
48-57 HAD A ONE PIECE "SEALED FOR LIFE" BEARING.
57-58 HAD A PAIR OF CUP AND CONE BEARINGS.
EACH "BEARING" INCLUDES BOTH THE CUP AND THE CONE.
Can anyone tell me - is the 48-57 listing for the "sealed for life" a typo, in that, the 2nd option above also states that the 1957 models had a pair of cup and cone bearings? I ask because my vehicle is 1957 everything on a 1955 chassis - which is why it's registered as a 1956!
I'm guessing I need the 2nd option, i.e, the pair of cup and cone bearings.
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
1993 BMW R100LT
2024 Triumph Bonneville T120 Black
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