Reply With QuoteMany people are also of the opinion that Barsleaks and other similar products tend to block up the small passages inside the engine even when they are not supposed to. So it tends to be an emergency option only.
TimJ.
RoverLord
its an addative that blocks up small leaks in the system, Its the lazymans approach to cooling system maintenance. Think of it as a light duty version of chemiweld.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Wizard
Many people are also of the opinion that Barsleaks and other similar products tend to block up the small passages inside the engine even when they are not supposed to. So it tends to be an emergency option only.
TimJ.
Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer
ForumSage
Subscriberit's good stuff, even mr ford put it in new falcons from new [think they needed to years ago]
it doesn't stuff up anything.
but it does stop leaks.
Safe Travels
harry
Volumetric Genius
It's rather doubtful that I'll ever get to the stage to use "Bar Leak" - just broke one of the 8 studs replacing the water pump. Think it's time for me to reconsider this entire thing.
How the hell do I get the 0.5 cm stud out of the thread going into the block? I tried turning it with pliers but I can't get a grip on it. And where might I get another bloody bolt that is the same BSF thread?
I'm sorry to let everyone down - including myself, but I've come to a point where I don't think I can face this any more. I'm going to find out if RACQ Ultra care will take it to Redcliffe for me. It is better to try and fail than to never try, I guess.
2007 Defender 110
2017 Mercedes Benz C Class. Cabriolet
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LordRover
SupporterI have found Bars Leaks does block some of the tubes in the radiator but Chemiweld does not.
There are coolant based lubricants around that help lubricate the water pump without blocking anything.
Garry
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
YarnMaster
I have never had an issue with Bars Leaks blocking anything it shouldn't! It is also a corrosion inhibitor and compatible with anti-freeze and other corrosion inhibitors.
Chemi-weld is superb at permanently blocking cracks, especially in castings but it is not recommended to leave it in the system permanently and it is not compatible with corrosion inhibitors,
Cheers Charlie
TopicToaster
Don't you dare! Take a break for a few days. Give up now and you'll regret it.Originally Posted by Scallops
ForumSage
Subscriberyou know what we say,It's rather doubtful that I'll ever get to the stage to use "Bar Leak" - just broke one of the 8 studs replacing the water pump. Think it's time for me to reconsider this entire thing.
How the hell do I get the 0.5 cm stud out of the thread going into the block? I tried turning it with pliers but I can't get a grip on it. And where might I get another bloody bolt that is the same BSF thread?
I'm sorry to let everyone down - including myself, but I've come to a point where I don't think I can face this any more. I'm going to find out if RACQ Ultra care will take it to Redcliffe for me. It is better to try and fail than to never try, I guess.
it didn't happen without pics.
if you have enough stud left to grab with pliers, try using vice grips, also a heat gun applied to the area around the stud may help to loosen it,
but a picture helps us to help you.
oh. another bolt, shouldn't be hard, lots of us old fellas never throw anything away.
i would come and help, but tomorrow is booked for more aeroplaning stuff, after all that's what pays the bills.
harry
RoverLord
I can be there tomorrow with a car trailer, I'll just consider it payment for past assistance and advice.It's rather doubtful that I'll ever get to the stage to use "Bar Leak" - just broke one of the 8 studs replacing the water pump. Think it's time for me to reconsider this entire thing.
You come and borrow my drillouts or easy out and drill bit sets. you might just be able to get it with the stud buster butif it needs at least 3mm proud of the block and a fairly clear flat area to work in.
Dont stress, it happens allow me to show you what happens when you let real amatures have a crack at a water pump, compared to those monkeys your a 5 star pro. Even if you dont come round to borrow the tools come for a look at the pump and I promise it will renew your faith in your ability.
you have the numbers
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
TopicToaster
One thing is for sure this has provided you plenty of opportunities to learn things you never even new needed to be learnt. Sounds like tou are about to learn how "eazy outs" work. If there is enough thread for pliers then get a pair of vice grips onto the peice before you round it off any further.
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