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Thread: Selectro front hubs

  1. #11
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    Your post is only relevant Ian, if 4WD is engaged at the time.

    With the hubs engaged and 2WD selected, no wind-up will occur,

    Cheers Charlie

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chazza View Post
    Your post is only relevant Ian, if 4WD is engaged at the time.

    With the hubs engaged and 4WD selected, no wind-up will occur,

    Cheers Charlie
    I presume Charlie, that you meant 4wd NOT selected
    Numpty

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  3. #13
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    Thanks Numpty, I have amended my post to what I meant to say

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #14
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    Been away for several days, chaps - really appreciate the collective thought here. Just returned from a trip to Canungra with the front disengaged and I couldn't really pick it in terms of fuel consumption or any thing else.

    Thanks again to each of you for adding to the discussion.
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  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by B.S.F.Nut View Post
    If you drive with the hubs disengaged and you break a rear half shaft the hand break doesn't work.If this happens on a slope in the middle of town you're lucky,because you can shout at passers by to place something behind a wheel.<snip>
    I had this happen on Parramatta Road in "lane 2" on Taverners Hill in Leichhardt Sydney during morning peak hour. I had no drive and of course no hand brake so I just had hold on my foot brake to stop traffic until someone road raged up to my window. I then asked him to turn the hubs on each side so I could continue up the hill and into the first side street.

    With that issue, the problems of uneven prop shaft wear and imperceptible fuel economy differences I wouldn't ever fit free-wheel hubs again and in fact have removed them from my Gog.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  6. #16
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    I think free-wheel hubs are a major cause of broken axles.
    I broke one back in 1968 at the Leyland Bros centre tree blaze near The Alice. In high range reversing out. Heavy sand. Dropped into low forgetting hubs were out. Snap. Front wheel drive to Port Augusta.

  7. #17
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    wind up

    Hi All
    omitted to mention
    at the start of my coment, you should make sure the transfer case is in 2 wheel drive.
    If in 4 wheel drive, all I said would be correct.
    cheers
    Ian

  8. #18
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    Personally I think the question of whether or not to dis-engage free-wheeling hubs only matters if you are talking about regular driving miles (ie. 30,000+km per year). I never engaged the hubs on my Series III except when needed off-road. The logic of unnecessary friction and wear on road won out for me.

    For the kind of miles you are likely to do in Matilda, the benefits either way are negligible. I would go with the - leave them dis-engaged but if you're needing to have a fiddle with something then lock them in for a bit.

  9. #19
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    As Matilda is a beast of pleasure rather than burden, you could choose by aesthetics.
    I prefer the look of the standard hubs with those little metal hub caps whereas others I am sure prefer the chunky look of the selectable hubs.

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by solmanic View Post
    <snip>
    I never engaged the hubs on my Series III except when needed off-road. The logic of unnecessary friction and wear on road won out for me.
    <snip>.
    Which unecessary friction and wear are you talking about?

    When the hubs are disengaged the diff and prop shaft find a natural position, this is almost always the same position when the universal yoke on the diff end is in the horizontal position, with the grease nipples down. This position allows the front suspension to work in its normal vertical plane. Every time the axle assembly goes up and down on each and every bump, the prop shaft spline slides in and out. This causes unnecessary friction and wear in one plane of the spline and eventually an out of balance prop shaft. The same can be said of wear within the freewheeling hubs themselves.

    An unloaded well lubricated drive line causes minimal wear on the individual components, the railco bushes in the swivels get lubricated reducing unnecessary wear of the fibrous material, the crownwheel in the diff and the diff berings continue to get lubricated and the surfaces remain rust free.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

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