Thread: Tristan the Tickford

Originally Posted by isuzurover

Yes, you are correct. Full flow filters catch the rocks, bypass filters are able to remove much smaller particles.

Many trucks have full flow + bypass filters (or centrifuges). The TD5 has a full flow filter and Bypass centrifuge (generally better than a bypass filter). Some toyota diesels have a combined FF+Bypass filter in the one spin-on element.

I have seen a few series 1s converted to a remote mount full flow filter.

So the question is .... why would you convert to a less efficient filter ?

I guess it all comes down to cost and availability. Making up a housing to look like an original bypass filter will be expensive unless you cast the two parts (otherwise there will be a lot of waste).
Full flow filters are cheap so once the housing is purchased the ongoing costs are low.

Might be worth looking at as long as you can source a bypass element that will fit inside, surely someone in the UK must have already done this ?

Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

Might be worth looking at as long as you can source a bypass element that will fit inside, surely someone in the UK must have already done this ?

Colin

Yes they have; check out the S1 Club website.

One advantage of the spin on filter is that it is much easier to change than the bypass filter apparently. I am going to fit a remote bypass filter on the bulkhead on mine,

Cheers Charlie

The last weekend in May is the Goomeri Pumpkin Festival so we took Tristan for a look. It gets bigger every year.
The contestants buy a pumpkin and try to make it roll all the way down Policemans Hill in one shot.

The finish line is out of sight to the right.



Afterwards the public can help themselves to any surviving pumpkins



Keith

We have been taking Tristan to the pub for lunch on some Sundays to keep the oil moving and stop the clutch from sticking.
Last trip we just made it home as the water pump bearings failed and it dropped all the coolant.
Its in the shed now for repair.
I had tried to repair an alloy pump when I first built it up but now will use a steel one as its in better nick.
The alloy pumps and some steel ones have a 38 mm approx diameter seal. The generic replacement that I bought with the generic replacement bearing is around 36 mm but as it happens it fits this steel pump perfectly.
Another difference is in the bearings. Some have an impeller with a small hole and need the shaft turning down and some such as the one I am using have a bigger hole the same size as the shaft.
Another difference is the pump body I will use. (centre marked Made in England) has no hole for a locking screw and is clear straight through, as in has no lip to divert a leaky seal to the drain hole. This means the bearing can be pushed in from either end. Makes it easier to get the impeller off.
I dont think that will be a problem as the new bearings look to have a better seal on the ends in case water gets past the water pump seal.

The generic seal comes complete with a ceramic insert. One can use this or stay with the original method and polish the face of the impeller for the carbon to run on.
I chose the former as the impeller face was pretty pitted.
I machined out a recess in the face for the ceramic insert. It has a ribbed rubber casing so just presses in.

I was going to ask you if you wanted a original seal, I still have a couple in gasket sets that I have , but see you have sorted it as usual.

Originally Posted by 1950landy

I was going to ask you if you wanted a original seal, I still have a couple in gasket sets that I have , but see you have sorted it as usual.

Thanks but I bought a couple from Craddocks. The 38mm size rubber outer. I might try and rebuild an alloy pump to put back later.
I hadnt realised there were so many variations.

Originally Posted by gromit

So the question is .... why would you convert to a less efficient filter ?
.......
Colin

The question really comes down to "what do you mean by "efficient"? One that removes smaller particles or one that filters all the oil?" When filters were first fitted to car engines, they were invariably bypass ones, as far as I remember, and only about the mid sixties were filters of any kind (almost) invariably fitted to car engines - and these were by then almost invariably full flow. In the last few years, as mentioned elsewhere in this thread, fitting both has become more common.

This level of filtration has become more important as oil change intervals increased. What are current Defenders? 20,000km? My 110 is 10,000km, my 2a is 5000km, and from memory, my Series 1 was 1,000 miles.

When you change at short intervals, filtering is not as important.