Thread: Parts - S1 1952

Thanks Diana - I actually mean the "Housing for starter" (sectIIp32#29 in the parts manual) - being the spacer mounting rather than the flywheel ring. The person removing obviously overlooked the locator bolt option and stripped off the whole housing - both of which were missing from this machine.

Nick - My tailgate is top notch, but I might take you up on guidance for the door skins. Having nothing at hand for 80" I am going to have to start from scratch. One thought was to take a set of later 86" doors (easily available up in FNQ) and modify them by chamfering the rear edge to fit the 80" and reskinning to cover the handle space... any experience with that route?

Perry - when sealing the tank with Redkote, how did you handle the drain plug / hole and how meticulously did you prepare the inside (rust removal)? I have had the tank mounted on the quad carrier shloshing pebbles / sand and water around with fair results so far, but if you have suggestions on a better way to make the insides shine it'd be great to hear them.

thanks to all
drew

I would not go down the 86" way, but bit interested in folding up some 80" doors give me a PM if you are interested.
Dennis

Originally Posted by Drew Parker

Perry - when sealing the tank with Redkote, how did you handle the drain plug / hole and how meticulously did you prepare the inside (rust removal)? I have had the tank mounted on the quad carrier shloshing pebbles / sand and water around with fair results so far, but if you have suggestions on a better way to make the insides shine it'd be great to hear them.

thanks to all
drew

What you are doing is fine, although my tanks weren't rusty inside. I'd steam clean if possible afterwards or at least wash the tank out with hot soapy water. All directions for use of Redkote are with the product, which involves cleaning and rinsing the tank, then using acetone (2 litres) to evaporate any remaining water. Just cover all of the holes with tape, pour in Redkote and make sure it reaches everywhere then stand over a tin to drain it out. They say one can per tank, but I reckon you could do both.

If you're thinking of going to the trouble of modifying doors, I'd go down the path of making new ones as has been suggested.

Perry

Hi Drew

I have some old skins here that can be used for patterns, I am presuming that the 86" has the same hinge and lock arrangement but I don't know, presumably one of the knowledgeable enthusiasts will be able to tell you.

Nick

Drew,
maybe worth having a chat to Ian ("BACK-IN") he made a few door skins
for a late series 1 (so harder than an 80" -I'd imagine) when he restored the vehicle.. (its a jaw dropper - I'll find the link to the thread)

he may be able to give you some hints/tips.

cheers
Digger


<<<edit --the link -- Rebuilding a 109 1958 Ute >>>

Originally Posted by Drew Parker

Just bought 1952 S1 for working restoration. Keen for advice on sourcing original and or replacement parts, esp brakes / ignition and electrics. Am also going to need a pair of front doors at some stage. Thanks Drew

Hi Drew

I traded a Holden powered 86" w/- Hard top and drum winch, in on a 6cly flat tray up at Mareeba in 1973.
I have often wondered what happened to it.
Keep a eye open for it, It was the only 86" around with a chromed, grill and head light rings. It probably became a parts doner years ago, as it (the Holden motor) wasn't well when I sold it.

Cheers Arthur

Will do Arthur

On the doors, I'll hand fire for a few months and see what turns up in the area given that the word is out that I'm looking.... Thanks to all for the suggestions

86" (107 etc) are simple to reproduce as they have a steel frame and fit to it by folds and rivets. Replaced all the skins on my 107 wagon and 107 ute. 80" on the other hand have folded Al frame that is spot welded together, a hole different board game.
Dennis