Thread: Parts - S1 1952

Reason the threads were still in good shape is that they were "sherardised" (see the Wikipedia article "Sherardising"). This was, and is, the most effective method of protecting steel parts that require to be dimensionally accurate, such as threads. It was used on all body bolts in Landrovers up to about Series 2a, I believe, although I don't know of any specific cutoff. Probably not long after the Leyland merger in the late sixties.

John

Originally Posted by Drew Parker

I'll buy new swivels. Still deciding whether to go Raiko or stick with brass (in stock). Are the control arms / pins interchangeable or is the Raiko swap more complicated?

I made new swivel pins out of EN26 when I did my railko conversion; however; I believe Dunsfold make a kit, which requires no manufacturing on your part. The steering arms can be retained,

Cheers Charlie

The "Railko conversion kit" is what's needed to do the modification, which has the correct railko pin to replace the original S1 SII pin. Don't get trapped into gettting a replacement Railko pin which will be the SIIa/SIII top flange and pin.

Remember when you attempt to remove the original splined pin there is a locating pin drilled through the long sides of the flange. You need to remove this pin before pressing out the original pin (although with enough tonnage you can sheer the locating pin)

Originally Posted by Drew Parker

Working overseas stretches out what would otherwise be a fairly quick rebuild. My 52/53 80" came to me via a blind bid on ebay, transported to FNQ and stripped over the last two years when home for hols.

It all came apart!! Only one bolt refusal on LH wing to bulkhead, but lowest and easy to sort out. Some bolts still had clean (anodised?) threads - amazing...

I've sourced almost all I need except for the chrome swivels, brakelines, seat bottoms and doors.

I'll buy new swivels. Still deciding whether to go Raiko or stick with brass (in stock). Are the control arms / pins interchangeable or is the Raiko swap more complicated?

Brakelines... once she is a rolling chassis again I'll get her to Mareeba and have lines made up to suit.

Seats... I'll bodge someting to get her going and come back to that later.

Doors.. I'm still tempted to modify a set of 86" units that I was given - but not a priority.

The wiring loom was far better than expected and only had one additional wire (fitted to overcome switch challenges). All sorted, instrument panel tested (warning lights adapted to accept LEDs), speedo overhauled and horn button rebuilt and functional. The bulkhead / wiring / steering ready to go back on.

Chassis.. had a kink in the FL dumb-iron - easy enough to cut / replate and rejig before sandblasting and painting.

The fuel tank... came back from sandblasting with more ventilation than I had hoped. Anyone have an easy way to remove the skid-plate for repair?

The engine... remains the big unknown. She started and runs fine at idle but clearly needs a carb cleanout. I was lucky enough to pick up a greasepaper new spindle block / air cleaner bends / underfloor chassis pads and bunch of other small items (anyone looking for a brandnew fuelpump mounting plate?) in a lot job, and have a couple of shelves of parts bought or collected over time - but until I get her up onto an engine stand and open her up I'm blind as to whether she's be worked over before. A video probe shows clean exhaust valves and minimal coking in the cylinders / on the pistons.

Springs... the front were fine, but one main on the rear LHS was too pitted to justify taking the risk. Spring shop in Atherton making me one.

Am assembling with polybushes... I gave up struggling with standard rubber bushes many years ago. She is effectively original (Diana reckoned she'd had a '54 engine fitted) and I am after a reliable working machine rather than a show-stopper.

Chassis now on stands, front axle fitted (awaiting replacement of all bushes / bearings / seals) and hopefully the rear can go back on once the spring is back from the wshop... then I can turn to the engine and play with that before fitting.

At this rate it'll be a few years before she's operational. The price of chasing the dollars overseas....

Hope you enjoy the pics

3 pics Cousin took pics before I bought (I was in Sweden at the time)

Attachment 58315

Attachment 58316

Attachment 58317

my girls get hands on

Attachment 58318

Attachment 58319

hi doors in stock good and straight jim

[QUOTE=Lotz-A-Landies;1884486]The "Railko conversion kit" is what's needed to do the modification, which has the correct railko pin to replace the original S1 SII pin. Don't get trapped into gettting a replacement Railko pin which will be the SIIa/SIII top flange and pin.




Anyone able to offer advice as to whether this kit

DA3181 SWIVEL HOUSING KIT SERIES 2A & 3 | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series

contains what is required for this conversion from Raiko to roller bearings?

Appreciated

Drew

No, not that one. This one.
Land Rover Series 1 ONE Swivel PIN Conversion KIT | eBay

Keith

Woops Sorry misread. I thought earlier you were changing to Railco,s from the early spline one.

Hi Keith

The mistake is probably mine.... I have the original brass cones and probably better reclassify my plan as moving to the Railko types....

The kit you shared - does this then fit the standard s2/3 chrome swivels?

Thanks
Drew

As far as I know they do. Though I havnt bought one yet. I still have the splined pins in both of mine but am thinking of getting these or doing what Charlie did if I ever get the time.
Send the guy a message to confirm if you want to be certain.
Keith