Petrol Tank Liner

**gromit** · 6th June 2011, 07:17 AM

I went down to the back shed at the weekend to fire up the Series 1 and noticed the smell of stale petrol.
My S1 has an extra fuel tank under the tub and a switch to select main or auxiliary. I run on the auxiliary most of the time so the petrol has sat unused in the main tank for a while.

On investigation the fuel in the main tank has gone off and there is a small leak from the bottom edge, just a wet patch rather than a leak. On checking inside the tank is heavily rusted, even the inside of the cap is badly rusted.
Not sure if the corrosion is just because the petrol went 'off', maybe I used an ethanol mix in the past or could it be the lead replacement additive I've used ??

Anyway, I need to investigate a tank liner system. I found that POR offer one (and there is an agent locally) I just need to check it is OK with ethanol based fuel. Does anyone have any recommendations ?

I can drop the main tank out and run on the auxiliary tank so at least I can still use it while I fix it.

Reminder to self....use both tanks and make sure fuel isn't going 'off' in future.

**bee utey** · 6th June 2011, 07:31 AM

RED-KOTE DRY FUEL TANK LINER REDKOTE RED COAT (eBay item 220763467393 end time 01-Jul-11 20:09:56 AEST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 6th June 2011, 12:21 PM

With modern fuels, it is worthwhile using a fuel stabiliser in our hobbies!

Such as Lucas Fuel Stabiliser

or the PPC (POR) product PPC - Fuel Preservative and Stabilizer

**gromit** · 6th June 2011, 12:32 PM

Thanks Diana,

This stabiliser has been advertised on TV a bit lately
STA-BIL :: When You Store, Start with STA-BIL®

I'll have to give one of them a try once I get the tank fixed.....

Colin

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 6th June 2011, 01:42 PM

Colin

I'm sure there are likely a few more out there but the message is clear, either drain the fuel when sitting for long periods or use a stabiliser.

If you live near a commercial airport, there are a number of aviation tank sealers Jeffco and KBS are names that come to mind, which may be cheaper than the POR product.

The important thing to remember is to get the tank scrupulously clean and rust free on the inside before using any product. Otherwise the rust may continue to build up and rupture the sealant coating.

**series1buff** · 6th June 2011, 03:15 PM

the POR kit has 3 parts

Detergent wash

acid wash

sealer

Dont waste money buying the whole kit. Just buy the POR or RED KOTE sealer .

Wash out the tank thoroughly wish a strong dishwashing detergent . Buy some rust remover /acid and thoroughly de rust the inside , it must be very clean bare metal//Put heaps of old bolts inside and mount it on a concrete mixer .

The tank must be totally 100% dry before using the sealer..Use a hair dryer inside it for a few hours to warm it up.

The rust mostly happens betwen the tank and the crash plate , water gets in there and its a disaster.

Mike

d@rk51d3 · 6th June 2011, 05:33 PM

+1 on the RedKote.

**Walster** · 6th June 2011, 09:57 PM

I used the POR15 tank sealer, and as series1buff has stated, just cleaned out the tank and used a cheap rust inhibitor, and dried the tank out using a hair dryer, and then utilised the POR15. Easy to put in and roll around inside (nice and thick), no problems at all in the past 3 years with ethanol additive fuels, normal fuel and also with a valve saver added.

**numpty** · 7th June 2011, 08:43 AM

Red Kote

**gromit** · 7th June 2011, 02:05 PM

I called into 4-Wheel Drives today and there were a number of reproduction fuel tanks ready to be freighted out. I asked about the Series 1 and they can get them made (approx $450) but they need the filler neck from the old tank.

I'm sure most sheetmetal companies could also make a suitable reproduction.

Not something I would buy but might be useful to someone, plus if you have a tank that is beyond repair save the filler neck......

Colin

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