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Thread: Spot welds and fuel tank mounting

  1. #1
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    Spot welds and fuel tank mounting

    Hi all

    I have finally made a start on my 1955 series 1 86". The chassis has been done and now it's time to put the puzzle back together.

    What do people do with broken spot welds in aluminium, for example, the seat locker lid strengthening pieces are broken away at the ends on mine and there are other parts throughout the vehicle with similar problems?

    I can get access to a tig and a spot welder but have never used either.

    The other question I have is the fuel tank bolted directly to the chassis outriggers or are there rubber pieces?

    I never took the tank out and even though I have the parts book 4107 pages 163, 164, 165, 166 are badly damaged and I can't use any of it.
    If anybody has an electronic copy of those pages I would sure appreciate it.

    Regards Paul

  2. #2
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    have pages

    Hi Paul

    I have the pages you need copies of, need taking gently through the process of scaning and sending though.

    PM me if you want me to do this for you.

    No rubber in the joint by the way.

    Cheers Arthur

  3. #3
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    welds

    Paul

    The broken spot welds . If the particular area is flat , then you can use a industrial adhesive to glue the parts together . They have been doing this in the aircraft industry for many years. Loctite make good adhesives....324 is one.

    If you have stress cracks in the panels, then that's different . You can oxy weld the panels together, but you need the correct flux.. its tricky , but it can be done. TIG is OK but you need to use the correct filler rod .. there are various types depending on the content of magnesium or silicon in the base metal.

    Mike

  4. #4
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    You can use pop rivets that are a V shape and when popped up are flush with the surface - when painted over look like the original spot weld.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
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    rivets

    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    You can use pop rivets that are a V shape and when popped up are flush with the surface - when painted over look like the original spot weld.

    Garry
    that's interesting .... never seen those

    Using ordinary solid rivets does work too . You have to find small countersunk head rivets . Again, the aircraft industry uses them. If you carefully drill and countersink the hole, the end result appears to be just like a spot weld. Takes some practice to make it neat though , you peen over the inside and flatten it down .
    I was thinking of making a portable hydralic press thing up to squash the rivets down, rather than hitting them .

    MIKE

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by series1buff View Post
    that's interesting .... never seen those

    Using ordinary solid rivets does work too . You have to find small countersunk head rivets . Again, the aircraft industry uses them. If you carefully drill and countersink the hole, the end result appears to be just like a spot weld. Takes some practice to make it neat though , you peen over the inside and flatten it down .
    I was thinking of making a portable hydralic press thing up to squash the rivets down, rather than hitting them .

    MIKE
    I think we are actually talking about the same thing except the ones I have used are a pop rivet - instead of a flat underside and a domed top the bottom is a v shape to fit into a countersunk hole - there is a small hole in the middle (sometimes) like a pop rivet but this can easily be filled.

    I used steel ones to repair a heater housing on my jag and then soldered over the top so it was not obvious there was a rivet in there.

    Bunnings used to sell them but certainly any speciality fastener shop has them.

    Garry

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  7. #7
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    photos?
    (REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110

  8. #8
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    Digger,

    Have a look here :- http://www.aviaquip.com.au/allfast/af9.pdf


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    Digger,

    Have a look here :- http://www.aviaquip.com.au/allfast/af9.pdf


    Colin
    Thanks I was trying to see a photo of how they look after fitting...couldn't find one..
    (REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110

  10. #10
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    aviaquip

    I bought the C/SUNK head solid aluminium rivets from AVIAQUIP..

    be warned ..you have to say you are in the aircraft business ..otherwise they wont sell to you ...

    I printed up a fake business letterhead and mailed off the order. It worked ..But if you ring tem, they are very defensive about selling stuff to hobby people

    MIKE

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