Titled the tread 1...Day as that's when it will be finished. Been sitting idle for a year or so, while I have been working on the Defender, but starting to gain momentum again. The idea was to learn a bit more of the mechanical workings and have a car either on Historic rego or an occasional driver.
Completed so far-
Fabricated & fit new cross member/ sandblast and spray chassis
Drift out and replace all suspension bushes
De rust, paint, grease and repack leaf springs and replace bushes
Rebuild steering box and relay/ fit new tie rod ends
Check gearbox and transfer/ new gaskets & rubbers
Fabricate replacement firewall pillars to replace rusty lower sections
Straighten front bumper
As with most projects it starts out trying to restore back to original though, I got sidetracked. In checking over the differentials, removal of the rear axle proved a stumbling block. Reading indicated it was pressed in with a 20 ton press. The reputation these components have as a weak link made me a bit nervous of driving the car further a field on completion. I decided to replace the rear with a later model from a series 2. With the philosophy of getting a bear, then make it a Grizzly I fitted a Sailsbury. The front track then needed to be widened to match. With wheel spacers illegal, I came across a reinforced military front housing again from a later series model that would match the width. On fitting the front housing I installed the needle rollers shimmed the series 1 castings so visually the knuckle casting are correct from the top to the steering linkages and modified the series 2 from underneath. This should reduce steering effort. While going I located some period free wheeling hubs and have fitted them along with some lifted military shackles
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My next step is where the questions start. With larger diameter brakes, which can only be a good thing. I need to source and fit a Brake Master Cylinder. Would a series 1 Brake Master Cylinder from a 107 suit the volume of fluid displacement for 11 inch front and 10 inch rear drums? The front system has Slave cylinders top and bottom. I am able to source both the Brake fluid supply tank and a 107 Master cylinder from the UK although they are expensive compounded by 75 pounds to delivery. Is there a better supply already hear in Australia?
I have done the same with the brakes. 11" front and 10" rear. Bought a LWB CB cast steel master cyl from 4 wheel drives. Not OEM of course but see how it goes. Not on yet but cost $60 plus PP.
Hi 123rover50
Could you please clarify. This CM LWB master cylinder, is this out of a later series so the mounting would be different going from 3 bolt to 2.And is there any change in length that may effect the mounting position
Thanks Brendan
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