Hi all
Was after some help with klonks steering box. Its had a S2a box fitted but not very well, so want to do some improvements.
The problem is that the arm on the box looks too long, is there a shorter one that can be fitted, as it is only about 1/2'' off the chassis and is very close to hitting the wiring harness and does hit the throttle linkage before getting full turns on the steering box. Dont know if this would happen when the steering is connected and the hubs hit the steering stops on the axel
Have found that the worm and nut box has 2.5 turns lock to lock and he 2a one has 4.
Also stiffening up the steering box mounting. The old one was made of a 1/4 plate stiffner on the drivers side of the bulkhead held on by 2 dozen 1/4 bolts and a piece of 1'' square tube from the steering box to the outer bulkhead upright. Ugly!
Any photos and comments welcome
Cheers Steve
Ps Sorry couldnt put photos in as ive already put them in Klonks main page, cant repost.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Steve,
Have a look on the Series one club forum www.lrsoc.com
Use the search tool and a lot of information will come up on steering box conversion to the recirculating ball type.
Going of what everyone else has done, they are using the Series 2a style mounts directly to the chassis instead of to the bulkhead as per the original. What horn button are you using now? The swamp man would have all the goodies you need brackets, not sure about which drop arm to use though?
Andy
Thanks Garry had to get help, wasnt to hard.
Please click on link
A well used 80''called Klonk
Andy Im using a S2 horn button in the wheel center and slip rings.
Cheers Steve
Hi Guys
Well here are some photos of what Ive ended up doing with the steering box mount. Not to keen with the bent drag link, done by someone else years ago, but it works. The bracket is out of a S2a, bent and cut down to allow the box to sit inline with the chassis and square with the bulkhead.
The steering wheel is in the original position and angle and clears the lid for the petrol tank. Had to add the bracket on the outer side of the steering box to stop a small amount of flex that was present and is now rock solid when turned to full lock and forced.
Cheers Steve
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