Thread: And so the restoration begins...

sorry yet anotehr post. got it to crank. its positive ground. Dash lights work. Park lights work. cranks strong. No fire. Not fussed. 1. no petrol 2.havent checked if fuse for fuel pump is blown.

Few more photos and some updates:

vehicle cranks so thats good.

Poured brake fluid into the reservoir but no brakes still. Dont see any visible leaks so I'm guessing the shoes are either stuck open or need to be adjusted? what should I look at?

also, when depressing the foot brake all the way, it pushes the clutch pedal down as well. Is that normal? having a look underneath there seems to be a little lock that pulls the clutch down when the brakes are pressed all the way.

Also, brakes wise, what should I attempt first? should I try adjusting the shoes? just need it to work a bit for now so I can drive it down into the driveway where I'm moving it. Will probably tear apart and order new shoes in the future.

There seems to be a leak under where the top rad hose attatches to. is that where the water pump is? it would seem as though its under where the thermostat would be just behind the pulley. Attatched a pic of where the water starts trickling from.

In one of the photos theres what seems to be a capacitor? anyway it has wires that come to where the steering wheel is but it isnt attatched to anything. Not sure what its for. It appears theres also a switch they attatched onto the rear of the ignition barrel..


now for a few more photos

should this be covered??






what this for?

it has wires going towards the steering column but it isnt attatched to anything?

doesnt look 'too muddy'

gonna change the oil before I try to get it running.

and I've got a leak coming from here.


What should I be looking at? its just above the pulley and under where the top radiator hose attaches onto. I believe its where the thermostat sits?

Originally Posted by LoveB

Just a small update, I'll have pictures up for later but for now I'll ask a question, 212192 is stamped near the spark plugs. Would I be correct in guessing that is the motor number? if so does it mean this is a 1.6 or 2.0?

There is a picture on another thread that shows the position of the engine number, the correct engine for your chassis number should be a 2 litre Siamese bore with a bypass oil filter, have a look at that other posting I did for you the bypass has two tubes going into the top of the filter can and to see it look down from the exhaust manifold .

i found the other lead lodged underneath. ---- which is which on the leads? theres a green and blue wire.

Don't worry too much about the colour of the leads, but very carefully look at the sizes of the battery posts and then look at the clamps sizes, all should be good if you get those sorted.
The original battery leads would have been a black plastic sheath with a cloth coating, I haven't seen those type of cables for years.

I might add that originally the battery would have been hooked up as a positive earth system, then when good generators became scarce people used to fit alternators and change the system over to negative earth.
Another reason to change them over was that a car radio could be fitted and also CB radios, which all require a negative earth system.

Yep, its a positive ground. the positive ground lead has cracked so i may replace it but the car cranked strong as it was.

Should I bother trying to change it to a negative ground or leave it as it is? I have no plans of installing a radio or a cb.

if the numbers are on the head its not the engine number .....if there on the flat surface of the block for the exhaust manifold {just infront of it} there hard to see, use a wire brush and degreaser.
hmmm if the oil filter is on the drivers side it indicates a spread bore engine , if theres the canister on the exhaust side its a siamese bore {older than mine ,1955. but im unshure of the change date.}

clarification....

1/yea the ht lead should be covered, id use elec tape as at least ,just to try run it..
2/ the oil leak the circular peice is the thermostat housing {it sits under it as is the squarish block it bolts to } so id guess the oil is from the rocker gasket
3/unshure on the brake clutch depressing together ,but might just be the two leavers binding up{ill pop a pic of mine up}
im no expert but id try the park brake as its a seperate thing and is the round drum on the rear drive shaft behind the gearbox..
4/ flasher can??? pull it out of its holder and see if it looks like a relay {3 or 4 terminals}

yes i think mine is siamese bore.

Has the filter on passenger side. put fluid in but brakes still no go. What should I be checking? try to adjust the shoes?

brake and clutch leaver pics

also if you turn the black nob 1 click and then the key with someone listening to the fule pump it will click a few times if its working

re oil leaks ...you wont find them till all the gunk is cleaned of
the parts and workshop manual {link in above post} will show you heaps and lists engine numbers etc
cheers mark

if its on the flat and you have labor about roll it a little and try the hand brake
the brakes arnt likley to be a quick solution even if its adjustment

the workshop and parts manual in one of my posts above will help with the clutch break issue