Thread: And so the restoration begins...

oh btw I tried to turn the engine with the hand crank thing and it seems to turn okay. so i suppose that means the engine isnt seized.

is that the only way to start this>

Originally Posted by LoveB

oh btw I tried to turn the engine with the hand crank thing and it seems to turn okay. so i suppose that means the engine isnt seized.

is that the only way to start this>

No - you will need a key for that key switch in the centre of the dash - and you push the button under the dash - you can see it in the dash picture.

The hydraulic brake filler is that screw cap you can see inboard of your petrol tank in the tank pictures.

Noted. Thank you. yes, I have the key with it. just didnt have it in the picture as it was in my pocket.

I suppose no harm in slapping a battery in trying to get it to turn over. Will see if getting fluid in the brakes will atleast let me get it down the driveway safely.

Seems to be missing 1 battery wire though.


also from what I've read, am I right in thinking the chassis or body number is the one thats bolted to the car under the instrument panel? where can I fidn the otehrs?

Originally Posted by LoveB

1. Where do I find the all informative numbers? Chassis/engine/transmission? That number you can see in the picture of the plate you showed should match the chassis number. I don't know where it is stamped on that vehicle but suspect it is on top of the chassis, passenger side, in the engine bay.

2. Were these landys run with hydraulic brakes? I can see a cylinder under the gas tank but not sure where the fill cap is? (wanted to try and fill it or get the brakes going cause the drive way to my aunts is a downhill slope and it currently has no brakes. not even the hand brake) It may need more than just filling.

3. how do I identify the engine? not sure which model it is. Someone else can answer that properly but it looks like the 2 litre engine to me.

4.Lastly, if any of you happen to have a diagram or what is what in the cabin like the light stalks and all that. please do post it up!

looks to be fairly complete and fairly intact. plans at the moment is to just get it mechanically sound and maybe run it with the body as is in all its glory. (apart from fixing and de rusting a few rusted bits that are attatched to the body)

now, enough talk. here goes the pics. Someone asked me earlier about the top and its a home made tin one.









Hopefully you will find this is your chassis number (unless the plate or firewall have been changed) and that is the starter button to the right of the plate.









See the screw cap on the other side of the tank? Brake fluid goes in there.













Key switch for ignition. The outer control also controls the lights.




Good luck finding a horn button - they are rare.



The button under the dash (under the right empty screw hole in the dash) is your starter.

Good luck with the rebuild.

Looks like an early 86" - 55 maybe. Post up the chassis number from the data plate and someone will be able to tell you or point you in the right direction.

Garry

Originally Posted by LoveB

Noted. Thank you. yes, I have the key with it. just didnt have it in the picture as it was in my pocket.

I suppose no harm in slapping a battery in trying to get it to turn over. Will see if getting fluid in the brakes will atleast let me get it down the driveway safely.

Seems to be missing 1 battery wire though.


also from what I've read, am I right in thinking the chassis or body number is the one thats bolted to the car under the instrument panel? where can I fidn the otehrs?

Before you go tossing a battery in there, you need to see if it is a positive earth or a negative earth vehicle.

I suspect it is a positive earth car. You will need to check that.

from the plate above it seems its a 54,86' CKD export RHD unit? is that right?


also how do I go about finding out whether its a positive or negative earth? I'm gonna need to find anotehr cable anyway I think as I can only see one at this stage.


Planning on changing the oil and filter...


What oil do you suggest and whereabouts would I be able to get a filter for it?

Originally Posted by LoveB

from the plate above it seems its a 54,86' CKD export RHD unit? is that right?

late 1954

also how do I go about finding out whether its a positive or negative earth? I'm gonna need to find another cable anyway I think as I can only see one at this stage.

Put a good battery in and hook it up with one lead, the one that goes direct to the back of the starter button, then couple a 12 volt light bulb between the earth lead and onto the other post and watch out for the following;
1. Lots of sparks and the light bulb glowing mean that something is drawing a strong current, keep finding and turning switches off until they cease drawing current.
2. When turning the key on watch out for, adding this, if the fuel pump starts pumping quickly, look at where the petrol is going the hose to the carby maybe perished and smoke, Lucas stuff runs on it, when it escapes, that's all folks.
3. When you have got to the stage that you need to know which polarity it is, turn the switch on for the headlights onto it's first position which is for the park lights, at the same time watch which way the Amp meter flicks and whether it moves slightly to the negative and if that is the way then all is well.

Planning on changing the oil and filter...

Is the oil that's in it still fluid?
If not, drop the sump and make sure that the goo hasn't blocked the oil pump pick up.

What oil do you suggest and whereabouts would I be able to get a filter for it?

Old motor with a few years on it in a warm climate, I suggest you try a 20W-40 old car spec or mineral oil, don't use a oil for modern engines and definitely not use a oil for a diesel engine, they have too high a detergent level .
Which side of the engine is the oil filter on, if it has an original engine it should be on the side under the exhaust manifold and that being the case it would be a bypass oil filter that uses the oil that is bypassed from the relief valve.
Sick engines don't seem to need the bypass filter changing!

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