Thread: And so the restoration begins...

Check the earthing

Originally Posted by Hartley

Check the earthing

hi there a guy in nsw who rebuilds them lost his details jim

Found a brand new piston and rubbers for 100$.


getting my master cylinder resleeved for 85-100$. YES!

now to get everything else I need

Your thoughts please... for the following parts,
bnew rubbers/piston
carby rebuild kit
brake hoses and brake lines
wheel cylinders
drums
shoes
brake fluid reservoir
thermostat
thermostat gasket
top bottom rad hose


would you pay 1395 for said items posted to you?? just wondering if it seems in th eright region (as im clueless)

Originally Posted by LoveB

Your thoughts please... for the following parts,
bnew rubbers/piston Don't understand what you mean.
carby rebuild kit Try Gower & Lee in the UK
brake hoses and brake lines
wheel cylinders
drums
shoes
brake fluid reservoir
thermostat
thermostat gasket
top bottom rad hose


would you pay 1395 for said items posted to you?? just wondering if it seems in th eright region (as im clueless)

It depends if you are a rivet-counter or not, I suppose, but the following may help:
1. The shoes and drums for a S2,3 will fit and are available from Four Wheel Drives in Melbourne for a reasonable price. They also sell S2 wheel cylinders and an adaptor - or you could have your original ones re-sleeved in stainless.

2. Ring around the brake places in the city of your choice, and they will make new hoses for you, if you give them a sample.

3. Try this chap for the reservoir - there are quite a few reproductions out there nowadays. John Wearing Rover Parts items - Get great deals on Rover P4, Land Rover Series 1 items on eBay Stores!

Cheers Charlie

I just love this post. It is like reading "Time Team"
Makes me want to restore my old J 20 Jeep.

Originally Posted by LoveB

When I've got the pump out on its own and connect it straight to the battery it seems to click correctly and work as it should but when i have it hooked up to the wiring it seems to only click very slowly if it clicks at all. Last october when I had it running it was on the same pump and same wiring. When I got back to it now it only clicked very little but almost not enough to get the fuel sucked up.

Assuming you have turned the diaphragm around to the correct position, set to where the points open when the center of the diaphragm is pushed with your thumb ( plus you must keep turning the diaphragm four holes past that point where this action of the points opening first starts to take place ).

It reads like now you haven't got the diaphragm tension not set properly.

To fix that tension you need a match stick, with the body of the pump taken off the base, push your thumb in the center of the diaphragm to open the points and then place the match stick under the rocking part of the points between that and the body of the pump, this can be a bit fiddly to do, but as long as the shaft from the points to the diaphragm is held forward.

Then screw the body back onto the base, after the match stick is pulled out the diaphragm should have near enough to the correct tension.
.

expect an update soon. Since I fired it up at work its been sitting since. lol! I'm gonna get this boy running soon mark my words. I need a series on the road!!