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Thread: Distributor and Carburetter reconditioning?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
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    Distributor and Carburetter reconditioning?

    Distributor
    My 1958, 2ltr petrol, S1 started back firing and ended up losing power etc. My usual mechanic came back to me telling me to get a new distributor cap and original leads. A year or two ago the engine was reconditioned (elsewhere) and the original leads were removed as they were too old. They crafted some Holden leads and spark plug covers. It seemed to do the job.

    Don't know if that affected things over time. Now we also have a suspicion the ignition coil is no more good/optimal. He sent me a text message asking me if it had 12 or 6 volts to coil and does it have a ballast resistor? Together with a marine electrician friend (who rewired his own S1) we rewired with a new loom about one and a half years ago (or was it two? time flies). It's now 12volt negative earth. I did not notice any ballast resistor in the wiring loom, OK lets be more definate, there is none. I haven't had a chance yet to ask my mechanic about his text (will do so Monday) but now I suspect there is maybe not enough voltage going to the coil!???

    After rewiring with the new loom, following the diagram and restoring everything to original, everything worked as should. ..... here it comes.... except the Ignition warning light is continuously on when driving. Is that normal? Did we make a wrong connection somewhere?

    Although my mechanic is very friendly and capable I am now considering if it is maybe better to send the distributor off to the UK for reconditioning. Unless someone knows a great address here in Victoria which has experience with these Lucas/Land Rover distributors?

    I believe I have an all original distributor. See pictures and let me know if I'm wrong.



    The pictures show the Holden spark plug covers and leads, but I still have the old ones. But cleaning off the huge amount of dirt shows how worn they are. I never realised I only had 3 suppressors. Do I need them anyway? And the silver tipped one of those had some type of ceramic stift which fell out and no copper internally???. In addition one of the cable nuts is longer than the others. Arent the long ones for the screw in ignition coils?




    Carburetter
    I am also considering to get my carburetter reconditioned (again ). It was done about a year ago outsourced by my mechanic to a specialist(??) but I have a feeling they didn't do a good job. Example, (sporadic) leaks and I noticed suction/vacuum pipe loose at carburetter side. Seems they damaged the screw/bolt.


    Reading up on the forums this could also be (part) cause of the back firing.

    I believe to have an orginial Solex carburetter. Anyone can confirm that?


    I am enquiring now with the recommended usual suspects in the UK. But if I can't afford to send it over to get it done there I probably need to get the parts to do it here. Anyone can help with:


    (I noted the Lucas and/or Land Rover part numbers.)


    • Ignition coil, Lucas 45054B / Land Rover 263732
    • Acorn nut, Lucas 408120 / Land Rover 240102
    • Split washer, Lucas 185015 / Land Rover 214279
    • Fuse box, Lucas 37131 / Land Rover 219078
    • Cover for fuse box, Lucas 291078 / Land Rover 261502
    • Fuse 35 amp., Lucas 188216 / Land Rover 12738
    • Distributor complete, Lucas 40504A / Land Rover 269240
      or just the Distributor cap complete, Lucas 418871 / Land Rover 245004
    • Suction pipe complete, carburetter to distributor Land Rover 21431
    • Resistor for distributor lead Land Rover 213646 (in the parts book but no picture, so not sure where this goes, optional or?)
    • H.T. Wire Land Rover 80603 (I believe this is "High Tension Lead, Copper Cored for spark plugs. 7mm(0.28") outside diameter", correct?)
    • Carburetter Complete, SX Type 32 PB 1/2, Land Rover part number 264664


    4x

    • Sparking plug Land Rover 262796
    • washer for sparking plug Land Rover 40441
    • Suppressor for sparking plug Land Rover 240138
    • Sparking plug cover Land Rover 214262
    • Rubber sealing ring for cover Land Rover 213172
    • Cable nut, Lucas 410600 / Land Rover 214278
    • Washer for cable nut, Lucas 185015 / Land Rover 214279

    If you can help with any of the above please indicate if "Used", "NOS" or "Reproduction". And then of course the price and shipping to Melbourne.

    Thanks,

    Kris

    www.landroverseries.org

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
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    Dizzy/ leads

    Hi Kris

    Your leads look to be silicone which if cut can break up causing problems. Get 7mm copper which can be had from Bursons and Repco as old stock. It's cheap.

    Try one thing at a time in order to identify the problem.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    You are right, one step at the time. I guess my frustration gets me carried away and I want everything perfect. Still, would be interested to know if there is any mechanic in greater Melbourne who knows their Lucas/Solex/Land Rover carburetters and distributors? Anyone has any good experience(s)?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    latrobe valley victoria
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    Narva are the makers 7 mm copper core..... They may want to sell you 39 meters but some Repco stores have it in stock by the meter2 .5 will do it all ... Moe Repco has it by the meter ,get you're local rc to order it from them
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  5. #5
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    I recon the dizzy dr is the go unfortunately , although there's a bloke in melb that has some new/ reco vac advances ...... My farting spluttering issue was fuel pump( crud inside) and a exh manifold leak and buggered coil .i ended up using a silver Lucas coil from a 70's Rrc
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  6. #6
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    Also try mower/ chainsaw shops for ht lead ends......
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  7. #7
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    Ps those bakerlite plug ends are rebound for bring c?)(p .....keep them 4 show
    2002 defender 110 , 1955 86 inch

  8. #8
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    The distributor cap looks similar to the one used on old Minis. Maybe the distributor would be similar. Mini parts people such as Northern Mini Parts and Link Automotive might be able to help.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    G'day Kris

    There is a guy in Qld that is the Lucas specialist,Kevin Baker,trading as K. B. Classic Parts,he is not on computer, but his ph No is (07)5494 4221 he has about 55,000 Lucas parts up there,( ex Lucas parts man) he should be able to help,by the way,you should have a standard 12Volt coil,no ballast,as those Ign systems run 12volt everything set points at .015 thou ins,it might be worth replacing your condensor as they can drop dead,or start dying,if you have a dead vacuum advance unit contact www.advancediaphrgmoptions.com,that is Mike Bushnell on(07)5428 0808 if you wish to talk to him,he is very good,as all he does is fuel/gas conversions and vacuum advance units the more common ones exchange,he does all my carby and vac work.


    cheers

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
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    Important Questions

    Hi,

    I think I am on the right track finding out what is/went wrong. I don't have the parts yet to proof it. But if someone has an answer to these questions it may help.

    My mechanic asks, how much voltage is supposed to go to the ignition coil? He says that most cars of the time only get 12 volt when starting, after that at running it goes back to 8 or 6 volt. Is he right, and what should the voltage be?

    Looking at the parts book I noticed the "Resistor for distributor lead" part number 213646. But there was no picture so not sure where that goes, and I'm pretty sure I don't have one (unless it is hidden away somewhere). Looking at the wiring diagram in the workshop manual I don't find it either. And there is not much regarding the distributor or coil in the workshop manual either.

    Now, the diagram is based on positive earth, but the car is of course now positive earth. Is that influeincing things?

    And why does my ignition warning light stay on?

    Anyone?

    FYI, we can't identify the ignition coil and it could be a resistor one, and as Alex informed me "
    As to the coil, the original is a 12 volt NON-resistor coil. 12v resistor coils are very common in Australia, so people naturally use them as a replacement because they look exactly the same, but are actually different and fail over time when fitted to a S1 landrover. So make sure you have a NON resistor 12v coil"










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