Thread: My 1955 86" rebuild.

A bit of a mixture today, needed to sort out some things for my other engine rebuild, then rubbed one of the door skins that I had painted yesterday, then onto the more serious work of undoing what some one in the past has done to the tub floor.
The wheel box arches had 3 spots where 2 rivets had been inserted, most likely to stop further deterioration of the support angle brackets up under the wheel arch, shame they didn't know about C'sk rivets in the first place

with all offending rivets removed, I turned my attention to the rivets and screws (gutter bolts) that had been inserted through the floor to stop the steel supports from rattling, bloody hell, all you needed to do was replace the 3/16" rivets, anyway I will have a neat pattern of C'sk rivets across the floor, anyway once painted I intend to have a rubber matt in place

well it looks like a storm outside, so I have packed up for the day, cheers Dennis
ps the Country Music Chnnel is on about 6k's away, they could be in for a wet evening LOL,,.

I did a quick experiment with the DBG paint that I have, I mixed equal volumes of thinner/paint and give it a try, here is the outer guard with it's first coat of DBG

in the image it looks like the rear top has been missed, it's only a reflection off the house, one of the door skins copped it's second coat

my good wife has allowed me to sit it inside the house, to minimize dust etc, anyway no more painting today as I have run out of hardener, cheers Dennis

Hi Dennis, Just one Question . What filler do you use on your Alum. Brand & is one that has alum filings mixed in it. I am asking for a friend who is about to start on the body of a ex RACQ 80".
Thanks Wayne

I have fitted the RHS door skin to it's frame without any difficulties, here it is with the 4 solid rivets in-situ

the door skin is slightly thicker than the original, it is 1.2mm, I need to dolly the folded edges down using a heavy soft faced hammer and a flat panel dolly, anyway that was a small part of my day LOL cheers Dennis

Well now I should be able to try and start the engine

it has been to Otto instruments Qld, the image does not do it justice.
The wet weather had put paid to any ideas I might have had regarding painting panels etc, anyway hopefully I can get into it between showers, cheers Dennis

Originally Posted by Dinty

Well now I should be able to try and start the engine

it has been to Otto instruments Qld, the image does not do it justice.
<<snip>> cheers Dennis

Dennis,
great work as usual..

Out of interest, what condition was the guage in before?
and can you give me a ballpark idea of what it cost to get done please

cheers

hope the spin up goes smoothly (although I expect no less from your work!)

Here is an image of the instrument as sent to Otto's

the temp capillary gauge had lost it's Ether and did not work, the Oil pressure gauge did work and was reasonably accurate, but anyway I asked them to go right through it and they did.
The cost was $187.00 for the instrument repair/calibration etc and $11.00 return postage, + $7.00 postage to get it there, it took approx. 3<>4 weeks all up, I suppose that depended on how much work was logged in before mine, I'm quite happy with the result, cheers Dennis

Hi Dennis
Excellent work
Been reading thread for awhile.
Please remember to video the first engine start.
the first start is a great moment.
All the best
Kc