TopicToaster
After replacing the front brakes on one of my S2A 109's and had all the wheel cylinders done in Stainless Steel, I'm happy with the brake job so far, just need to road test it first.
Today I had ideas of wiping over the seatbox and etch priming it, but my attention keeps going back to the niggling issue with a small water leak somewhere around the Thermostat/water pump housing, so this morning I went with the niggling issue of water leak. A container was filled with water and carefully poured in, and in no time it had sprung a leak (insert swear words here), but leak it did but not from where I had expected it, it was leaking from the hose that connects with the inlet manifold
so after that I asked my wife to check with a torch (as I'm colour blind) to see if she could see any water being displaced on any other metal surfaces, and her answer was Yes!!!, under the water pump assembly.
So back into the shed and the required spanners etc and in no time it was all dis-assembled, the water pump was showing signs of having leaked in the recent past, a rust stain was on the outside of the housing
I was expecting the leak from under the Thermostat housing but not so
anyway now to look at the possibility of getting another water pump, does it ever end, LOL, I want to hear the engine run this century not next, cheers Dennis
YarnMaster
SupporterThose new replacement pumps are not a good fit either. I had to grind the bottom of the pump body to clear the timing cover & also open out the holes to get the bolts to line up with the threaded holes in the block.
It is always advisable to put a used water pump in water to cover the carbon seal so it doesn't dry out or get rust between the seal& impeller when the block is sitting without water in it.
TopicToaster
The last S2A 88"GS I was playing, I took the water pump off and kaept it immersed in water, but it didn't save the seal, it let go in spectacular fashion on the vehicles first long run, LOL swear curse etc cheers Dennis
ForumSage
Keeping a spare waterpump in oil might be a better idea, that way water wouldn't get to seep into the bearing while being stored and still keep the seal moist.
What do you think?
YarnMaster
SupporterIt would rot the rubber on the seal
ForumSage
Point taken, I was thinking of the ceramic seals but.
.
TopicToaster
Not a great deal to report on, water pump away being repaired (hopefully) fingers XXXX'd, I know I have said many times that Land Rover panels and bog are not a good mix, well I had to apply a little today to the rear tub, mainly to cover damage from someone way back using a hammer to straighten the panel
, anyway I managed to get it mostly straight and applied a small amount of bog into the low spots
the proof will be when I have applied the top coat of DBG, well I'm hoping it will look OK, cheers Dennis
ForumSage
SubscriberWell, if its bad by your standards... I'm happy to take it for you as I amOriginally Posted by Dinty
Not a great deal to report on, water pump away being repaired (hopefully) fingers XXXX'd
the proof will be when I have applied the top coat of DBG
pretty sure that it will still be brilliant!
(REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110
Getting withdrawal symptoms.....................
ForumSage
SubscriberX 2 !!
(REMLR 235/MVCA 9) 80" -'49.(RUST), -'50 & '52. (53-parts) 88" -57 s1, -'63 -s2a -GS x 2-"Horrie"-112-769, "Vet"-112-429(-Vietnam-PRE 1ATF '65) ('66, s2a-as UN CIVPOL), Hans '73- s3 109" '56 s1 x2 77- s3 van (gone)& '12- 110
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