Thread: My 1955 86" rebuild.

Still working on this and will have to have it ready to move under it's power very soon as my next door neighbor will be home from O/sea's in about 2 weeks
Opinion needed
yes I have some kit under his carport LOL, with his permission of course, hopefully it will all come together and I can get back into the Series 1, cheers Dennis

Managed to get a little time on the vehicle this afternoon, a quick dash to Maitland to get some new BSF bolts, a quick scrape over the mating surface

fit gasket and cover the new bolts with never-seize and fit the pump

a small step in the right direction, many thanks to my mate John, cheers Dennis

I'm my own worst enemy , still working on 2 Land Rovers @ the same time, anyone would think I would have learned my lessons a long time ago.
This afternoon after lunch I managed to get a little more done to this vehicle, mainly by default as I had no more electrical 1/4" spade clips etc to finish a job on 113-372, so a quick swing over to the Series 1.
With the water pump fitted and after reading about ? Lozza's episode with a leak from around the O ring and copper cup etc, I thought best be checking the depth of the machining on the new pump, turns out it was 0.012 deeper than the original, so a quick look in my 'grey' cupboard for my shim brass

crikey how long have I had this shim brass pack, it has many different thicknesses of shim, so I selected 0.010, marked it out with my small engineering tools, punched out the center with a 9/16" wad punch, it still needed a trim with a pair of surgical scissors, and then it fitted like a finger in a dog's behind.
Out with the Ultra blue to add some sealant around it, make a new gasket for the thermostat housing, fit it all up and now wait for it to go off before filling the system

As some of you might remember I had worked on a 88" Series 1 bonnet , anyway I have managed to get the correct bonnet, so today I decided to swap the hinges/bonnet and put the 86" bonnet into place, shock horror look at the gap

I was annoyed to say the least and really ****ed off, so I went for a drive in the 110 up into the Wattagans to cool off. While I was up there it occurred to me that maybe the 86" & 107" could have different length bonnet hinges, anyway to cut a long story short, they are different part numbers , so I found the old ones that were fitted to the bonnet (the others had been re-galvanised) what a difference that made

a bit of country/cocky farmer repair on that hinge, a gal/bolt for the hinge pin LOL, the gap from the left

so now I need one hinge to suit a 86"/107" and get them galvanized when I do the next lot etc, so I must say even though I have to shell out a little more, I'm in a better frame of mind this afternoon, still grumpy though LOL
anyway settling down listening to 'The best of Slim Dusty', cheers Dennis
ps here is the link to my "other job' LOL
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showthread...25#post2215925

The weather has got me completely bamboozeld, sunny one minute/raining the next. I made a gasket while my wife went out and I fitted the water pump inlet pipe, only to discover that somewhere in it's past some-one has lost the distance piece that fits between the inlet pipe & timing case cover, and also lost/misplaced the correct length bolt as well.
So I let my fingers do the walking and rang around bolt makers etc to see who (if any) had 5/16"BSF x 2 1/4", I managed to get what I wanted & Newcastle Hi-Tensile, albeit 1/4" longer which will not pose a problem for me, here is the new bolt against the short one that was fitted

now to find a suitable lump of metal to turn down in the lathe to act as a replacement distance piece, but the weather turned against me (rain) so I went back to the job on 113-372, anyway there is always tomorrow, cheers Dennis

My run of crap luck continues, this morning just after 0800hrs after looking @ the B.O.M (more rain) I decided the quickest way to make a spacer was to use a hex nut, this was quickly machined this is what it looks like before the thread was removed

back in the chuck and pass a 8.5mm drill through it to give it clearance

it slipped over like the proverbial finger etc

here it is after a quick coat of etch/flat black

refit all the hoses screw up the hose clamps, fill the radiator and check for any leaks, ANY LEAKS he said not heaps of leaks

crikey it was coming out almost as fast as it went in, and from under this hose as well

I can't believe this is happening
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkUQaKxW_Ag&list=UUDUQng9nBYUyOD1OEO5jbDw[/ame]
the rain came along as well, I suppose you could say I'm not happy ATM.
I now know why most Pom's replace their engines with 2.5 diesels etc, I'm very tempted at this point to put in the Series 3 diesel (5main bearing) engine that I have in the shed into it, I have everything that is required to do an engine transplant, anyway I will calm down and look at it again, this time I'm going to remove the rad/sup panel etc, cheers grumpy

Well not to let this get me down/beat me, I took to it with gusto, but again after a few minutes the rain came back with vengeance

6mm fell in a very short period of time, the water tasted sweet anyhow.
I very quickly removed the rad/sup panel along with the radiator, but the rain was back so into the shed.
Utilizing the time while the rain was hammering down on the roof, I made a new gasket as I can't wait a week or so to get them from the UK

also made another one of these for the bottom inlet pipe

all mating surfaces were scraped clean using a razor blade, here is the block before cleaning took place

all surfaces cleaned with thinners, the new gasket applied to the water pump, along with a silicon type sealer

it has all been put back in place, everything nice n tight

now to let it stand overnight etc make a couple of blanking plugs in the morning so I can check for leaks before refitting the radiator etc, anyway fingers XXXX'd, cheers Dennis

This looks like the same problem I had when I fitted the new pump to my 80" , the bottom of the pump was hitting on the timing cover , After grinding fitting grinding fitting & checking with bearing blue I managed to stop the leak , I had to grind about 5mm off the bottom of the pump, I also had problems with the hose not sealing on the spout, I tried different hose clips until I got one to seal. I rang the supplier in Newcastle & told him the problem I had with the pump & he said he had sold lots of these pumps & no one had ever complained, I have spoken to others that have bought these pumps & they too have had to grind them.

I am pleased that I have read this thread, in my collection of bits for restoring 'HECter' is a brand new water pump and I will be now looking at any possible interference in the place you both have mentioned.

Nothing to do with this thread other than the fact that there are little things can trip you up. I broke my last spare locating stud in the timing case of a TEA20 Ferguson that I am rebuilding the engine on. I had found that the governor control shaft that goes through the timing case had way too much end float and pulling out the locating stud found that the little pin turned on it's end was snapped off.

Screwed another good one out of another spare timing and promptly broke that end off when I tried to screw it home. Why? After disassembling the shaft completely, then pulling the shaft out, I found that the needle bearing outer was slightly over the inside of the hole, it must have been that way from the factory over sixty years ago and so now need to make a couple of replacements as that part is no longer available.

Times like this I hate myself for selling my lathe some years ago.
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