[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcgC3V3mkcw]Metal Shaping with Lazze: Spot Weld Aluminum with a 220V Welder - YouTube[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gcgC3V3mkcw]Metal Shaping with Lazze: Spot Weld Aluminum with a 220V Welder - YouTube[/ame]
Yes DC is needed - new TIG's have a rectifier inside them to convert the AC to DC.
Do you know anyone with a Tractor Pack Lincoln welder - the sort that runs off the PTO - by swapping the earth and live-lead, the polarity gets reversed apparently and it can weld aluminium. I tried once but I must have done something wrong because I couldn't get a stable arc.
Perhaps your only choice is to use an oxy-set to do plug-welds, but in any case practise on an old panel first and control the distortion. I use a paper mulch made out of torn up newspaper about 20mm square, soaked in water and then placed either side of a join about 25mm away,
Cheers Charlie
Just saw the post. I know you are in the middle of looking at welders. I have posted a few pictures in the Galvanising thread. The material I used was 2mm aluminium sheet as this is what was available and local. Similar to the thinking 60 years ago when these vehicles were made.
The material is thicker than original and I figure it will compensate for any difference in material composition if required.
One piece of advice I would offer is to take any of the reinforcing pieces off to reuse. This could save a lot of manufacturing of bit that are ok.
The main components made from this so far are inner guards where the originals were ripped and fatigued. The tub skins due to fatigue and dints. The door skins due to electroloisis and the tailgate if that is what you could call the bit of bent metal that tried to fill the gap at the rear of the tub.
On the welding front I got a mate to tig weld some of the flat panels on for me thinking there would be less distortion. Glad I did as you could see any hair line cracks highlight under the heat of the welder, more so than when I mig welded parts earlier.
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