
Originally Posted by
shaunh
thanks for the info colin, so what metal would you suggest steel or the kunifer?and get a roll instead of the pre cut lines? and if i get a roll where would i get the fittings? are the brake line all 3/16" and the resovoir to master cylinder 1/4"?
On an 86"/88" yes mostly 3/16" then 1/4" from the reservoir.
As already mentioned, you can get the steel tubing & tube nuts or flare nuts from a brake specialist. I've found it can be expensive so you need to shop around.
Paddocks list the tube nuts & flare nuts at a reasonable price.
Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 Master Cylinder Parts | Paddock
You then need a reasonable double flaring tool which can be expensive.
I have an old Snap-On metric flaring tool which does a great job on Imperial tubing.
I carefully took off the old pipes, and used some string to work out the length needed (add a bit extra).
I straightened the new tube when cut to length then fitted a tube nut or flare nut and did the first double flare. Then I carefully started to bend to shape, offering it up to the vehicle to check until I was happy and could work out exactly where the second double flare needed to be.
IMPORTANT, fit the tube nut or flare nut before forming the second double flare !!
All cutting should be done with a pipe cutter, a hacksaw creates particles which will end up in the brake system.
Steel bundy tube should last OK and as mentioned copper isn't allowed in some States. If you use Kunifer how do you prove to the tester that it isn't copper ? Colour is different but you might end up with a problem.
Best of luck.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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