I have no experience with Automec but I prefer to use steel pipe myself.
Plain copper pipe is a no no here but I'm not sure about the copper nickel.
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						anybody have any experiences with the automec brake line kits?
like this one?
Automec Land Rover Series 1 ALL 1 4 Inch Brake Pipe KIT | eBay
just wondering if they are any good or not
cheers in advance
I have no experience with Automec but I prefer to use steel pipe myself.
Plain copper pipe is a no no here but I'm not sure about the copper nickel.
Scott
Used Automec in the UK years ago and their kits were well made.
Land Rover Series One Brake Parts Page 5
The Kunifer (copper/nickel/iron) was the tubing mainly used by UK restorers to resist the salt on the roads (if the vehicle was driven in winter).
Personally I've never had much luck with pre-made brake lines. They always seem too short or too long.
I make my own (but haven't done the 1/4" pipes on an 80"), mind you I did the reservoir to brake master on an 86" which is 1/4".
Bent using my thumbs (I tried a fancy bender without success).
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						thanks for the info colin, so what metal would you suggest steel or the kunifer?and get a roll instead of the pre cut lines? and if i get a roll where would i get the fittings? are the brake line all 3/16" and the resovoir to master cylinder 1/4"?
I think you may find that copper/nickel pipes are no longer legal in Australia. At least this was what I was told by a blue slip inspector a couple of years ago.
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
 YarnMaster
					
					
						YarnMaster
					
					
                                        
					
					
						On an 86"/88" yes mostly 3/16" then 1/4" from the reservoir.
As already mentioned, you can get the steel tubing & tube nuts or flare nuts from a brake specialist. I've found it can be expensive so you need to shop around.
Paddocks list the tube nuts & flare nuts at a reasonable price.
Land Rover Series 2, 2A and 3 Master Cylinder Parts | Paddock
You then need a reasonable double flaring tool which can be expensive.
I have an old Snap-On metric flaring tool which does a great job on Imperial tubing.
I carefully took off the old pipes, and used some string to work out the length needed (add a bit extra).
I straightened the new tube when cut to length then fitted a tube nut or flare nut and did the first double flare. Then I carefully started to bend to shape, offering it up to the vehicle to check until I was happy and could work out exactly where the second double flare needed to be.
IMPORTANT, fit the tube nut or flare nut before forming the second double flare !!
All cutting should be done with a pipe cutter, a hacksaw creates particles which will end up in the brake system.
Steel bundy tube should last OK and as mentioned copper isn't allowed in some States. If you use Kunifer how do you prove to the tester that it isn't copper ? Colour is different but you might end up with a problem.
Best of luck.
Colin
'56 Series 1 with homemade welder
'65 Series IIa Dormobile
'70 SIIa GS
'76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
'81 SIII FFR
'95 Defender Tanami
Motorcycles :-
Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650
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