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Thread: Bundalenes '51 Restoration

  1. #121
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    [QUOTE=Bundalene;2300014]Just a quick one on springs, are we measuring from the same place on the spring? I believe Free Camber is the measurement taken from the base of the spring shackle bush and not the center of the shackle bush. Free Camber is measurement referred to in the Workshop Manual,

    The tops are in very good condition. Not sure what the "D" represents



    Hi Erich
    Good question, when I reset klonks springs I used the the bush centres and I reset a 1/2" higher all round to allow for settling , so I had a bet both ways.

    Maybe the "D" is for the drivers side spring.

    Cheers Steve

  2. #122
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    Wow, that was a long time away from my obsession, family and work commitments got in the way.

    Our next goal is to get to a rolling chassis. The vehicle I am restoring came with original axle housings and 1 diff but little in the way of hubs and axle assemblies.

    I have removed an assembly from a 53 80inch and I assume they are the same or very similar (by the parts book) I disassembled the front housing this afternoon. Normally I would have pressure cleaned this first, but the pressure cleaner is playing up. I need to get some new seals for the unloader valve. My first 2 attempts of replacing the O rings didn't work,

    There are a number of things to be addressed in this front end - swivels, bearings, seals, front diff? front brakes (all sorts of issues). This is the first time I have seen a Tracta joint, having read about them and seen pics.

    My work area is a bit cramped and needs a good tidy.


    This afternoon we went from this








    To this






    Hopefully I am getting closer to bolt bits back onto the chassis!

    Does anyone know any differences between the 51 (wide front springs) and the 53 in this area



    Erich

  3. #123
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    I don't think there's any difference in the 51 and 53 springs. The one to watch for are the S2 springs are also able to fit but they have the slightly different positions for the keepers that hold the leaves together and this fouls on the steering linkage at full lock. Some times fitted by previous owners.

    Hope your diffs are in better condition than klonks, I think it cost me about $280 just for the 4 bearings in each. The pinion bearing closest to the pinion gear cost the most, it's a different size to S2 and S2a.

    Cheers Steve

  4. #124
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    We spent the whole day cleaning the parts removed yesterday, quite an effort.



    From the likes of this








    To this








    This allowed us to closely inspect parts and see what is required, Good news the stub axles and drive flanges are OK, the right has a little slack, probably no more than half the Defenders out there and the really good. The wheel bearings were packed in heaps of grease, probably way too much and are in good condition, I probably don't need to replace these, though that are consumables IMHO. The rear seals were leaking slightly as the grease in the inner bearings was tinted black, Also both inner wheel bearings appeared a bit loose on the shaft though there was no sign of them spinning on the shaft. It may be prudent to install them with some retaining compound.










    The axle splines also seem OK with no apparent wear nor evidence of twisting. The diff seems to be in good order with the slightest movement, although I haven't cleaned this yet. The diff housing had a lubricant with the consistency somewhere between grease and oil.






    The right swivel pin connection (if that is what they are called) - the splined connection to the top of the swivel housing is unserviceable (stuffed) and the left one is quite good - not perfect by any means. The swivels were packed in a thick grease which I think is quite unsuitable but probably the only lubricant which would stay there as the seals were rock hard and the chrome has been worn away at places and will need attention.








    As far as I could tell the tracta joints appear to be in good order, but the bronze bush in the end of the stub axle housing which I think should support the shaft adjacent to the tractor joint had a lot of clearance


    Bronze bush in which the shaft in the background runs




    I haven't got far with the brakes, other than to find one of the snail type adjusters is way too loose and the spring isn't working at all. This will have to be addressed. I think these are a grind to remove fitting? The snail bit seems OK. I may turn up the stepped retainer in the lathe.





    The main item I am uncertain about is the bronze bush near the tracta joint. I must admit I haven't had time to research this.




    Erich

  5. #125
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    I did a bit of pottering after our Australia Day lunch. A great way to spend a few hours, cleaning a few parts which were soaking in the molasses bath.








    I also found a pair of good working shocks which scrubbed up pretty well. I am not sure if they are originals , but they look the part. These are Munros







    Last thing, I thought I would have a go at removing the axle from the swivel hub. The short one is OK but the press I used isn't deep enough for the long one - have to go to plan B






    Still taking bits apart, not turning the spanners in the correct direction yet!!

    Erich

  6. #126
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    The main item I am uncertain about is the bronze bush near the tracta joint. I must admit I haven't had time to research this.

    Erich[/QUOTE]


    Hi Erich
    I bought a brass bush from the bearing shop and cut it in half. The outside diameter was right for the axel stub housing, but the inside diameter was too small for the axel, so I pressed the bushes into the housing and machined them to size in the lathe at work.
    Cost was about $15.

    Cheers Steve

  7. #127
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    Going back through this over the course of today has been quite informative. It's shaping up well for you, well done

  8. #128
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    We did a bit of shopping today as I had to go to Karcraft anyhow. I was able to buy about 2/3 of the items I was after - mainly seals, tie rod ends, and hub nuts and tabs.

    I also went to a hard chrome company in Silverwater with a swivel hub but the price just for the hard chrome without any polishing was $150 per swivel. I want to have the swivels chromed rather than other options I have read about. I may look at the exchange option.


    Thanks for the info Steve, we have a pretty competitive bearing supplier up the road, just need to find time to get there. I might have to get a smaller boring bar, mine are large and larger, a good investment regardless.


    I do have a set of adjustable reamers, but somewhere in my grey matter I remember that it is not good practice to ream out bronze bushes or was that sintered bronze?



    Erich

  9. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bundalene View Post

    I do have a set of adjustable reamers, but somewhere in my grey matter I remember that it is not good practice to ream out bronze bushes or was that sintered bronze?

    Erich

    Yep don't ream sintered bronze

    Cheers Steve

  10. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bundalene View Post
    I do have a set of adjustable reamers, but somewhere in my grey matter I remember that it is not good practice to ream out bronze bushes or was that sintered bronze?
    Hi Erich

    I was able to find some references to sintered and solid bronze bushes.

    Ref;http://www.scotttechnicalities.com.a...d%20Bushes.pdf

    Small End Bushes.txt
    I copy my operation sheet for your general interest
    Small End
    Phosphor Bronze from EMAM is 27 OD x 12 bore as A4358
    rough to 21mm od x 67 lg x 19/32 drill bore but watch that rough bore is true.
    This blank makes two bushes. Hold in 21mm collet to produce first bush, hold on
    first bush to make second bush, then part off, face and chamfer.
    check internal bore as this is always marginal on boring
    Nom bore in rod 0.8125"
    Hone out to give 85% clean up
    Turn bronze bush blank +0.0015 / 0.0020" OD
    Bronze bush rough bore 0.593" = 19/32" drill
    Length = Rod width + 1.4mm
    Chamfer ends + bores
    Turn lead Rod bore - 0.0005" x 1.5mm
    Push in rod
    Mill cutout + ( side oil reliefs for racing)
    Drill + Tap 2BA for security screw (Racing)
    Loctite in 2BA brass cheese head screw flush to inside of bush blank (Racing)
    Bore to 0.6245" dia on jig to correct centre distance
    Internal oil grooves on racing engines by hand.(Racing)
    Hone to loose SF on gudgeon pin 0.6262 / 0.6265" dia
    Cut off brass screw (Racing)
    I do realise that my methods are perhaps more "particular" than normal, but I
    have made many machines for car factories and note the tolerances specified. The
    reliability of Japanese products is, to a large extent, a result of accuracy of
    manufacture.
    I am not looking for work and if you do not have the facilities, perhaps a local
    engineering shop or good model engineer can help.
    Whatever you do, I do urge you to be sure that you have accuracy within two thou
    in parallel and twist. I aim for one thou.
    I would strongly recommend that you do not resort to the trick of putting in the
    hole and then bending and twisting the rod till it seems to have alignment. The
    rod usually "Unwinds" in service and reverts to its unstressed attitude. A rod
    that has been running will have settled into its natural attitude and will not
    move again in normal use. It therefore follows that the hole should be put in
    correctly first time.
    An engine with rods in good alignment will give a good service life.
    Alfred Scott knew exactly what he was talking about when he chose the logo "Made
    to limit gauge" Of all the components in this deceptively simple engine, the rod
    little end to big end alignment is by far the most crucial.
    Kindest Regards and Happy Christmas
    Roger Moss
    _________________
    Rebuilding and upgrading of Scott and Silk power and transmission units. New
    enhanced replica Scott engines. Special manufacture Scott technical info at our
    website Moss Engineering

    Ref; http://www.lm-tarbell.com/common_que...ronze Bearings

    Q: How long does the oil last?
    A: An Oil Filled/Sintered Bronze Bearing with a 3/4"
    diameter and 1-1/4" in diameter and 1-1/8" long
    was run at 1800 RPM for a total of 1,321,920,000 revolutions
    without exhibiting wear or scoring of the shaft.

    On a high speed application a sintered bronze bearing with a
    9/16" ID and 3/4" long was run at 9500 RPM for a striking
    456,000,000 revolutions without depleting the oil
    content and without scoring the shaft.

    Q: Can different oil or grease be used in sintered bronze bushings:
    A: Yes. High temp, wax based ( anti-migration

    Q: What is the porosity (oil by volume) of a sintered bronze bearing?
    A: 22%

    Q: How do Oil Filled/Sintered Bronze Bearings perform in shock
    and impact applications?
    A: An automotive steering gear assembly was run to destruction. Conditions
    were an impact load of more than 6,000 lbs. PSI at 800 RPM. The sintered
    bronze bearing and mating shaft worked perfectly.

    Q: How do Oil Filled/Sintered Bronze Bearings perform in high
    speed applications?
    A: On a high speed, portable tool operating at 20,000 RPM with a
    hardened and ground RC 60 shaft our bushings have lasted far beyond
    the OEM Mfr's lifetime requirements.

    Q: How do Oil Filled/Sintered Bronze Bearings perform in
    severe duty applications?
    A: On a rigorous railroad application Super ( 863 ) Oil Filled Bearings
    gave an outstanding 631,000 miles of travel over a 57 month period -
    and were approved for further mileage! Until our bushings were used,
    the normal life was 225,000 miles.

    Q: Can you lap or ream a sintered bronze bearing?
    A: NEVER LAP a Sintered Bronze Bearing! The abrasive will embed itself
    into the bearing/oil and turn it into a lapping compound - You will quickly
    destroy your shaft.
    .

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