Thread: Bundalenes '51 Restoration

I can remember an associate of ours(Eddy) often saying that ' with pain and perserverence you could .............. a fly.
I beleive you are gaining a better result.

Top work Erich!

A few observations of mine from over the years;
1. Heat is always a catalyst with molasses and is well worth doing if it has to be done quickly.

2. Adding more molasses should not be shied away from if the temperature is in the 20's or higher and nothing much seems to be happening.

3. Penetrol is really superb for penetrating rust and neutralising it by keeping the oxygen out of the reaction. I suspect it could be useful inside your chassis, where the toothbrush can't reach,

Cheers Charlie

I have seen formula between 10:1 (water:molases) 4:1.
To me 10:1 is a bit like watching trees grow.

The molases bath will not remove paint.

Sand blasting only removes rust on the outside.

A commercial chemical strip removes both paint and rust in the inside and out but is expensive. I had it done on my 6x6 defender and am glad I did as even though it had been sand blasted previously (then re-painted poorly), it didn't reveal rust under the axle bump stop brackets. If I had not done the chemical strip I would never have found the rust and would find significant problems in the future.

In your case Erich, you could always do a paint strip and pressure wash off the paint and them put it back in the molases for a final go. But I would be happy with the peformance of the molases so far in respect of its normal function.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

In your case Erich, you could always do a paint strip and pressure wash off the paint and them put it back in the molases for a final go. But I would be happy with the peformance of the molases so far in respect of its normal function.

In our build, I don't want to apply any paint at all, just leave the paint which survived 64 years.

The chassis prep is almost complete.












This has been a real chore. Not quite complete but ever so close.




I am looking forward to the next stage - make a rolling chassis.





Erich

Hi Erich

I think you are asking for trouble on the chassis and firewall.

I would be fumigating the inside of every element with Penetrol rust prevention and I would seriously consider a coat of satin clear on the outside at least.

The process I am going through is first the molasses bath, which I complain about, but it did remove 90% of the rust, then for the outside, I scrubbed the whole chassis with phosphoric acid, dried thoroughly, cleaned with wax & grease remover and repeated this process many times until I was satisfied with the result. This is then painted with 2 coats of POR15 Glisten, which is a 2 pack gloss clear coat (they no longer make this product in satin)






Here are some before and after shots of the same area

Straight out of the molasses bath





After much scrubbing with phosphoric acid






After 1 coat of POR15











For the inside, the chassis had a coat of penetrol, which will be followed with a thick layer of cavity wax. .









The firewall came out a bit shiny so I am considering a light rub back with some 1000 wet & dry and giving it a coat of KBS satin finish. This may still bring out the underlying gloss of the POR15 (a bit of trial and error)




Erich

I haven't been able to do much due to a sore finger, but I now have had the stitches removed and can gingerly wear a glove, although not for long.

I had a good look at the original rear springs and they appear in reasonable condition with a free camber of 112mm (left) and 120mm (right) which appears to be OK. (102mm and 114mm by the book)

The only issue as there is a little wear in the second leaf on the left spring, at the point where the material width steps in. I am aware you are able to get the correct spring material guillotined to the correct width, but not sure if the thickness is available.

I will go through all the spares next week and see if I have any in better condition, else I will see a spring man early next week to see if I can have the 2 main leaves made for each side. The leaves are now resting in the molasses bath.













On the down side, do not put the likes of the brake master cylinder into molasses as it eats the housing. (I will post a pic at a later date) I did read not to put cast material into the molasses, but now I know. Fortunately I have another which came with a bunch of spares from an auction.



We will be assisting our father-in-law move to a retirement village at Sanctuary Point for the rest of this week and then Christmas is almost upon us.



Erich

I don't think the correct thickness is available - it was an imperial size, and it is worth noting that even by late Series 3 the spring leaf thickness changed; and I think it was purely material availability, possibly as a result of the collapse of the UK steel industry, as well as metrication.

John