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Thread: Bundalenes '51 Restoration

  1. #31
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    There's a feed and grain store on Camden Valley Way at Leppington (near the mower bloke and the Forest Lawn cemetry), can't remember the price but I seem to remember they had the best price I'd found in SW Sydney and they sell by 10 litre drums.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  2. #32
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    Jan 1970
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bundalene View Post
    ----- Does anyone want to share a bath when I'm done?

    Thanks but no thanks.

  3. #33
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    Wow, how time consuming are these Series 1's. I have been trying to spend 2 - 3 hours every day on this project (when we are home) but there is little to show. This can be spent removing a bolt or half removing a spring shackle bush !!

    Today we started washing the chassis and cleaning out the rails / degreasing etc, probably another day until this is done.

    Also bought a 200l drum of molasses in readiness for pickling the chassis. I rang around and learned that there are 2 wholesalers supplying the local Sydney market. Brandon Molasses at Erskinville $190 for a drum and Castlereagh Stockfeeds for $155 for a drum. Castlereagh is closer and I picked up a drum.


    Below is a pic of the bath with the firewall under. From the imprint the solution is working well









    Erich

  4. #34
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    You are doing well.
    Now remember when this steel comes out of the bath it starts producing surface rust on the bare metal nearly straight away so be prepared to coat it with something as soon as it dries after the water rinse.
    Get it in the hot sun to dry and spray Ensis oil or other inhibitor inside the box sections.
    Good Luck.

    Keith

  5. #35
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    We have had visitors for 3 weeks and haven't been able to carry on with the restoration, other than a regular scrub of parts in the molasses and some collecting. All should be back to normal next week.


    We have been extremely fortunate in this area, picking up some rocking horse poo along the way.


    A power takeoff with pulley in very good condition

    A Series2 / 2a (1962) workshop manual still in the original cover and a 1969 users manual with all leaflets in excellent condition, still in the original cover






    A horn button / dipper switch in very good condition







    Erich

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    Ohhh! I'm bright green with envy.

    Or should that be Ascot Bronze Green with envy.
    .
    Last edited by wrinklearthur; 1st November 2014 at 07:34 PM. Reason: colour the comment

  7. #37
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    May 2008
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    I have finally organised the chassis molasses bath. There are many ways to prepare a chassis for restoration, but in my case it was important to retain the existing paint, but remove most of the rust – mainly surface, and then prevent any future rusting. The other process I was considering was dry ice blasting and I was told you could wind down the pressure and remove rust but not too much paint. I haven’t used this before and wasn’t going to risk it, besides it would have cost a lot more.


    Firstly I dug a pit as we have an excavator on hand and I figured it is the easiest way to hold back 2 tonne of water. I considered the above ground method but in our case this was easiest. Then made a timber frame, lined with carpet , 2 layers of plastic , another layer of carpet on the base and finally added the molasses. The last part will be to cover it for safety sake

































    Now let it rest for a few weeks




    Erich

  8. #38
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    Jan 1970
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    I love it, can't wait to tell my mate Neville, who did the same thing with his P4 chassis, cheers Dennis

  9. #39
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    May 2008
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    We took the firewall out of the molasses bath today and low and behold – no more rust, just shiny metal. I washed this down and before my eyes, it turned rusty. I was surprised that some tiny rust holes did appear at the underside of the gutter on the engine bay side, most of these were nor through the metal. This adds character.

    A coat of rust remover sorted the surface rust.. We sprayed some rust converter into the cavity of the firewall as well. Next step was a liberal dose of cavity wax into all the voids of the firewall, a whole container.

    This was followed by a thorough clean with “Prepsol” grease and wax remover.

    Originally I intended to use Penetrol for the finish, but did a few sample items yesterday and wasn’t that happy with the results, probably because I didn’t clean with Penetrol.

    I purchased self leveling POR15 product and used this. The downside of this product is it is hell expensive



    Before and after rust converter






    Whole firewall with rust converter





















    Before the molasses bath (I don't have a pic of the whole firewall






    Before painting





    after painting






    I am surprised how little paint remains on the inside of the firewall. This is the type of finish I will end up with.




    Erich

  10. #40
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    May 2008
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    The chassis molasses bath is a slow process, slower than I expected. It has been 10 days now, but it is working.


    I opened the covers again today and was surprised on how cold the water was, thinking that after yesterday's scorcher, it would have been warm. I will take off the covers on the next hot days and see if that helps. I am not going to scrub it at this stage as I don't want to damage the paintwork which still covers 3/4 of the chassis.


    After a water top up, it has gone back to rest
















    Erich

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