Reply With QuoteThat's what I thought Jim but thought I'd ask first, just in case.Originally Posted by russellrovers
Master
hi use a long handled screw driver and a lump hammer and good hit and dont lose the clips the crews are self tappers with cut ends hope this helps jimCurrently looking at the brake lines, surely a system dreamed up by one of the electricians from Lucas.
One page of my notebook now filled with a diagram and lots of notes, most of which will probably prove to be illegible come rebuild time.
Enough photos to impress any teenager with a new smart phone. I'm about to label them all so I know what they are.
Any tips on getting those rusty, crusty old fittings free?
First there are the little clips that hold the brake line to the chassis. Simple clip over the line held down with a screw. Of course, the screw slots are universally full of rust and barely visible. Using a hammer to tap a screw driver along the slot makes no real difference, confirming my belief it's rust, not dirt and no, the force didn't free the screws up in the chassis either. I could just cold chisel them off but would then have to drill out the stub of the screw in the hole.
Then there are the various connections between flexible hose (a statement of original condition, not descriptive of their current condition) and solid hose. On some of these, you can actually see where there are threadsThat's right Virginia, on some, there is no visible sign of thread at all, all rust.
Believe it or not, this is one of the good ones.
Finally, you have the connection to the brake drums and T pieces. These I do NOT want to muck up because they'll be used later... I hope. Past experience suggests I'm a hopeless romantic here BUT, is there anyway of getting those bits apart?
For the record. She'll be getting brand new brake lines, solid and flexible, front to rear. Probably nice new master and slave cylinders too, I just haven't looked at what I've got there yet but they'd have to be very good for me to reuse them.
Master
That's what I thought Jim but thought I'd ask first, just in case.
ForumSage
The slot in the screws can be cleaned out using a thin hacksaw blade, use the type that fits into a fret saw frame.
My tool box has a couple of sacrificial screw drivers with the steel piece that goes right through the handle and a scrummage through the collection of ring spanners will find one of the ringies that fits neatly on the handle.
So squirt, screwdriver in the slot tight, a squirt, a wack with the club hammer on the top of the handle, squirt, a slight tighten, a squirt, another wack, a squirt and using the ringie for extra leverage twist the screw slightly back and forth.
If that doesn't work just repeat till screw gives up.
RoverLord
Most of the bits will (eventually) come loose with - penetrating oil, heat, try to move both tighten then loosen - repeat until success.
Anything you have used penetrating oil on, and are planning to reuse on brakes, must be washed with detergent and then with metho.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Master
The fittings on the brake drums. Are they straight onto the slave cylinders or is there something inbetween?
RoverLord
I assume you refer to the brake backing plates rather than the drums. Yes, the fittings screw straight into the cylinders unless they have been modified with, for example, an adapter to match BSF to UNF or metric. (which should be obvious)
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Wizard
It's coming along nicely
ChatterBox
Supporterwhat's happening Mate ? the suspense is killing me (+ there's bugger all to watch on tv).
cheers,
D
1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)
Master
Die ya bugga
Let's just say that 'stuff' has kept me away.
As far as Wombat goes, I have removed most of the brake lines. As discussed above, I needed to cut out the rusted in screwdriver slot. I used my Dremel for this and it did fantastic job - quick, easy, controlled and the slot was a perfect fit for my medium screw driver. Some WD40, a whack or two with my light hammer, a twist forward (I could usually hear the rust seal break free) and out came the screw. The only one I ruined was one I couldn't see to get at properly (I need a new work light) and cut the slot off to one side - it came out easily enough with the pliers. A couple were a bit recalcitrant but a whack under the clip with a cold chisel loosened things and they unscrewed easily.
I'd already decided to replace all the solid lines and it's just as well, because they were all rusted onto the connecting nuts and tore of at that point.
The flexible hoses (term used to describe their original condition, not their current) undid easily with some WD40 and the right sized spanners.
I haven't attacked the line that runs across the rear axle yet, for no good reason other than I'm taking this job as I darned well feel like it and no faster.
Can anyone explain why the chassis end of the passenger side flexible hose is mounted on a bracket welded to the chassis, whereas on the driver's side, there's no support at all?
ChatterBox
Hi, I have read your post start to finish, GREAT work, what a battle with that bolt.
As for the front brake lines, I think they should both be mounted back to the chassis. I have just checked on a '51, a '53 and a '58 model and all have a flexible hose securing bracket. My early parts book also shows fixings on both sides.
Looks like another job to put on your list before painting the chassis.
Erich
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