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Thread: The restoration of Wombat

  1. #381
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The bush comprised two steel tubes, vulcanised to the inside and outside of a rubber tube. The outer steel tube is a press fit into the eye of the spring, and the inner, compression tube, is a close fit on the shackle bolt, and kept from moving by the two cheeks of the shackle or dumb iron being clamped on the ends. The bolt is a standard one, BSF originally on that vintage, but can be replaced by UNF as it is not tapped into anything. Bushes after the 80" narrow spring models are readily available as they remained the same up to Series 3 (except for the chassis bush on the front spring that changed for Series 3.

    The bolt will be seized by rust onto the compression tube in the centre of the bush. If you cannot free it by repeated heat plus petetrating oil, there is little downside to using a thin cutting disk to cut the bolt and compression tube both sides of the spring, taking care not to damage the spring or the dumb iron.

    You can assume the bush will need replacing anyway, and the bolt probably would as well.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #382
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    Just had another go at it. One side will turn with great effort but it's obviously the steel bits turning inside hot rubber bits. The other side is solid. I'll be shopping for thin cutting discs this arvo.

    I didn't expect this to be a biggie, I'm just getting sick of destroying things

  3. #383
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    Procedural question.

    I was planning to remove the suspension, then prep and paint the chassis, then redo the suspension (and axles and brake drums, etc, the whole unit) before remounting them.

    However, that leaves a freshly painted chassis banging around and with my work habits, 'banging' might be the operative word.

    Would I be better off, pulling the suspension (as I've nearly done), then putting the chassis to one side, redoing the front and rear suspension units, THEN painting the chassis before reinstalling the freshly refurbised wheelly bits?

    The only downside to the latter option is it will probably see me spending more money sooner than I expected... but it'll have to be done sooner or later.

    Or can I do everything out the to brakes and refit the old brakes without touching them. This will give me wheels to remount the chassis to and allow me to do the brakes later when I'm in a position to do the whole system in one hit.

    Why do I feel like I'm missing something screamingly obvious?

  4. #384
    Is Vic There Guest
    Mate, I'd do the chassis first, I was pondering the same.
    My thoughts are while the chassis is away getting blasted and fixed I could look at either stripping the engine, box, cases or axels and brakes. I think I'll do the diff and brakes while the chassis is away, this way at least I can have the whole thing sort of moving when the chassis does come back so ? can at least move it round the place.
    The problem we have is that we don't know how much anything cost until we strip it so its pot luck really.

  5. #385
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    Thanks Vic... however, I won't be getting the chassis sand blasted. Two reasons for this - money and lack of something to get it there. She'll be done the hard way (and yes, I fully recognise that doing it by hand is doing it the hard way).

  6. #386
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    My word. You really are a glutton for punishment!
    -Mitch
    'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.

  7. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by Toxic_Avenger View Post
    My word. You really are a glutton for punishment!
    I bought a Land Rover. Glutton for punishment by definition

  8. #388
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    Quote Originally Posted by crackers View Post
    Thanks Vic... however, I won't be getting the chassis sand blasted. Two reasons for this - money and lack of something to get it there. She'll be done the hard way (and yes, I fully recognise that doing it by hand is doing it the hard way).

    I didn't sand blast klonks chassis either and I'm glad I didn't now , as the paint dried and pulled tight you can still see the pattern of the old paint underneath along with other details which shows its original.

    I don't think it matters what order you do your chassis , it's going to develop some patena as you work on and around it. What comes first the chicken or the egg. Actually the rooster did.

    Cheers Steve

  9. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by klonk View Post
    I didn't sand blast klonks chassis either and I'm glad I didn't now , as the paint dried and pulled tight you can still see the pattern of the old paint underneath along with other details which shows its original.

    I don't think it matters what order you do your chassis , it's going to develop some patena as you work on and around it. What comes first the chicken or the egg. Actually the rooster did.

    Cheers Steve
    Did you spray your chassis or do Dinty's trick with the brush?

  10. #390
    Is Vic There Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by crackers View Post
    Thanks Vic... however, I won't be getting the chassis sand blasted. Two reasons for this - money and lack of something to get it there. She'll be done the hard way (and yes, I fully recognise that doing it by hand is doing it the hard way).

    I've been quoted $80 to blast and prime the whole chassis.
    Works out cheaper than buying paint stripper and paint!

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