Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20

Thread: Getting an 80" going - engine rebuild

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,796
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by klonk View Post
    Klonks cam has 1mm worn off the top of a couple of the lobes, so that makes quite a difference to the lift of the valve.

    Alex at the series one shop can get them re ground but he is finding it hard to get cams that aren't too badly worn.

    I've found a second hand 1600 engine for sale, condition unknown . So I don't know whether it's worth the risk or do I save the money and put it into Klonks engine.

    Steve
    Metal spraying then regrinding might be an option but I dread to think of the cost.

    DCL Surface Engineering - Thermal Spray Coatings - Arc Spray - HVOF - PTA - Flame Spray - Gas Wire - DCL Engineering Group

    Possibly worthwhile if you had a batch of them done.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    133
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Many thanks all. Looks like the plan is to get the engine out and how it looks after a good clean and strip down. Might take the front guards off at the same time and see how the front chassis looks too.

    The other complicating factor is that a few bits (carby, a piston and conrod, distributor, generator) are missing. Of these, only the piston and conrod are an issue. I can source a replacement but it feels like bad practice trying to mix a random odd piston in with the others if I'm going to the trouble.

    cheers
    Phin

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    133
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've also put up a wanted ad for a running 2 litre on the off chance that there's one out there.

  4. #14
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    29,511
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by phin View Post
    Many thanks all. Looks like the plan is to get the engine out and how it looks after a good clean and strip down. Might take the front guards off at the same time and see how the front chassis looks too.

    The other complicating factor is that a few bits (carby, a piston and conrod, distributor, generator) are missing. Of these, only the piston and conrod are an issue. I can source a replacement but it feels like bad practice trying to mix a random odd piston in with the others if I'm going to the trouble.

    cheers
    Phin
    Taking the guards off will make it easier to get the engine out.

    If you do fit an odd piston you need to balance the piston/rod assemblies.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Queensland
    Posts
    3,434
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by klonk View Post
    Klonks cam has 1mm worn off the top of a couple of the lobes, so that makes quite a difference to the lift of the valve.

    Alex at the series one shop can get them re ground but he is finding it hard to get cams that aren't too badly worn.

    I've found a second hand 1600 engine for sale, condition unknown . So I don't know whether it's worth the risk or do I save the money and put it into Klonks engine.

    Steve
    When I rebuilt the 1600 Tickford engine and again the 2000 siamese Royal engine I had both the cams reground. That worked well. The 2000 sounds a little bit better than the 1600 though, it may be because I fitted new camshaft bearings to it or it may be the new liners and matching pistons. Seems to run smoother with less ticking.

    Keith

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    133
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks - sounds like it will be hard to know more until the engine is out and clean. will get some diesel into the bores to free up the pistons in the meantime.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    167
    Total Downloaded
    0

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    133
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Bundy - will see how mine looks then might get onto the ad.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    133
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well it took a while but the fun begins... Engine should be coming out tomorrow morning.



    The left hand dumb iron is worse than I remember though. Do you think I can get it stretched back or will I need a new dumb iron?



    cheers
    Phin

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
    Posts
    3,092
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by phin View Post

    Do you think I can get it stretched back or will I need a new dumb iron?



    cheers
    Phin
    Make a new one - they are only four pieces of 2mm sheet, welded together at the corners.

    Take the shape of the sides from the good one and transfer the shape to pieces of thin cardboard. The top and bottom can be tacked at the crossmember end and then bent and tacked in stages until they reach the front. Don't forget to put crush-tubes where the bumper bolts on.

    Anyway, leave this job until the chassis is stripped and then you can check the dimensions of the entire chassis. I made a jig which fitted into the shackle eyes on the chassis to help locate the new dumb-iron.

    If you want more detailed instructions, PM me with your email address and I can send you a Word.doc on how I did mine,

    Cheers Charlie

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!