My next door (to work) neighbour is an old school radiator repair place. He has fixed a few Series fuel tanks. I will quiz him about it
Any clues on how to go about repairing rust eaten holes in the bottom of fuel tanks? The tanks I have are eaten through due to dirt being harboured between the bottom of the tank and the metal bashplate/mounting bracket.
What is the best way to clean up any rust and prepare the surface for a an attempt at a solder repair job?
Any advice welcome.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
My next door (to work) neighbour is an old school radiator repair place. He has fixed a few Series fuel tanks. I will quiz him about it
G'day Paul,
There used to be a radiator place near the Bundaberg general cemetery, off Bolewski Street and then it turned into Taylor Street. Taylor Street runs parallel to the former Bi Lo petrol station drive through that also informally connects Bolewski Street though to Heidke Street.
I had a Commodore petrol tank repaired there years ago. It had a split along the seam. I received same afternoon service! This included their having to drop the heavy duty towbar arrangement to access the tank on my VH station wagon.
I went looking for the same business last year and it had moved or closed down with no forwarding address. Apparently it had not been located there for a long time. I wonder if the radiator bloke next to you is the same person?
I was looking to get a rust hole fixed in one Series III tank and one of the brass fittings brazed back on to the top of another Series III tank. No hurry - however it would be good to know where to get them fixed.
The rust hole was from the same source as Mick's, The brass fitting was the drain plug. It was dripping since I bought the vehicle off the previous owner. When I went to tighten the plug up I noticed that both the plug and the female surround it threads into were turning as one. Then after I tapped it with my finger both the plug and the surround fell out - while diesel was still in the tank - nice!
Sorry that it is not much help to you Mick
Kind Regards
Lionel
Do a search on the S3 page and you should find my report on how to do it using PVC glue,
Cheers Charlie
I will try to be helpful,
Clean the area up with a wire brush and or any other devices to clean rust and paint off. You also need to flush the tank clean, so there is no fuel smell to avoid an explosion. Before starting to remove rust. Then you can decide how to fix the holes, solder, patch by welding or rivets and sealant, when it's clean you could take it to a workshop for repairs if you like.
Repairing a series fuel tank
Thanks for this Charlie - I was just about to ask what was the best solution for cleaning out an old tank!
cheers,
D
Last edited by Dark61; 29th June 2016 at 06:49 PM. Reason: spelling
1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)
Would always suggest welding, brazing or silver solder.
Irrespective, always a good idea to get it checked with an "explosimeter". Such devices do exist. Most likely place you will find one is local fire brigade :0) I'm sure they wouldn't mind using theirs to have a sniff.
Cheers
RF
IF there is still metal enough, try soaking in ICT R-20 (this stuff converts rust back to metal) then use the POR 15 or the newish AUS equivalent the name of which escapes me at the moment. I assume they still have it but used to have kit specially for fuel tank leak repairs.
I've only used the R20 once, but marvellous stuff (water soluble, claimed non-hazardous, biodegradable - about $30 for a litre of concentrate at most Auto places (mine ex AutoBarn)
Good luck
Last edited by gavinwibrow; 1st July 2016 at 05:47 PM. Reason: typo
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Clean it to bright metal with a mechanical wire brush, then silver solder a patch over the holes. Use plenty of the correct flux. Leave the lid off and remove the filling spout. Watch out for large amounts of fire eminating from the filling hole.
Aaron
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