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Thread: LANDY'S LAST RESTORATION BY ME

  1. #101
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    IMAG0923.jpgIMAG0924.jpgIMAG0925.jpgOne of the claws on the air filter cradle was broken , fortunately I had a new Rover P5 air filter that has the same claws , so I robed one off it to repair the one on Landy.
    IMAG0920.jpgIMAG0917.jpgAlso yesterday a few more bits turned up in the post. I found some small LED screw in bulbs that will fit the ignition , choke & oil lights in the dash. I hop they will make them easier to see, especially the oil light that has to shine through the word OIL that is cut into the brass disc in the front of the light holder. Also a new Rub strap for the bonnet & a new oil plate for on top of the front panel.
    I also found a set of SS wire radiator hose clamps , so fave started fitting some of the radiator hoses.

  2. #102
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    I have developed Dermatitis in my fingers so am now going three mornings a week for treatment that takes up most of the morning by the time I drive to the doctors , have the treatment , then drive home.
    So a little got done this afternoon. I managed to get the radiator panel painted & also the underside of the front edge of the bonnet & the two rolled under sides. I am leaving the rest of the underside as it came out of the factory , unpainted.IMAG0934.jpgIMAG0936.jpgIMAG0936.jpgIMAG0935.jpg

    I clicked on the same photo twice cant see how to remove one so I will leave it .

    I also started running the new wiring harness on the bulkhead , I will post up photo's when I get that part of the wiring finished. .

  3. #103
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    I spent the morning stripping an old wiring harness out of a P4 Rover to get some of the wire colour wires I needed for my head lights. I decided it would be easier to wire the head lights up then have a connector on thew out side of the light to connect to the new harness.IMAG0961.jpgIMAG0960.jpgIMAG0962.jpg

    I then bolted the lights & horn back into the front panel. I also found a couple of the correct size grommets & fitted into the panel to stop the new harness chafing on the Aluminium.IMAG0963.jpgIMAG0964.jpg

    For those that have a keen eye you will notice that the reflectors have a hole in them for park lights , I fitted these reflectors as they have a larger hole for the bulb & I have fitted Hegelian bulbs for better light. the grill cuts down at least 50% of the light. I found if I was using the vehicle at night I would have to remove the grill to be able to see.

  4. #104
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    I fitted the wiring back into the original clips ( I am also running earth wires from the electrical components back to a common point on the body which will then run a single wire back to the battery earth. I didn't want to risk the possibility of bad earths between the new painted panels.
    The next job was to refit the radiator which I had had cleaned & a new overflow pipe fitted some weeks back.IMAG0966.jpgIMAG0966.jpgIMAG0964.jpgIMAG0965.jpg

    Then it was time to cut some insertion rubber mounts for the front panel & bolt the panel back on the chassis.IMAG0967.jpg

  5. #105
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    IMAG0959.jpgIMAG0958.jpgAnother half day of work today, started by attaching the self cancelling indicator switch to the large boss non the steering column. Now all I need to do is work out how to stop the top dust cover from turning free of the inner column then I can attach a lug to the cover to hit on the fingers of the switch if I can find a wider section lock nut there would be enough metal to attach the cover with some small metal threads, or screw a lug to the lower face of the steering wheel to do the same. IMAG0980.jpgIMAG0981.jpg I also wired the bulk head side lights & refitted them & went through my old screw collection & found a couple of 1/4" BSF metal threads with rounded heads to hold the grill.

  6. #106
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    IMAG0978.jpgIMAG0979.jpg
    I also got a start on the L/H front guard removing the 10 bolts that hold the outer & inner guards together. By this time my wife came home & wanted to put her car in the garage were i was working & it was starting to rain quite heavy & was getting too dark to see with out the lead light, so I packed up my bongo's for another day.

  7. #107
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    Going well, I'm still amazed at how much time it takes to do stuff on these cars.

  8. #108
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Quote Originally Posted by klonk View Post
    Going well, I'm still amazed at how much time it takes to do stuff on these cars.
    They were built with a minimum of tooling, which meant a lot of 'fitting' was involved in the manufacture. Which in turn means that there is a lot of fiddling in rebuilding.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  9. #109
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    My main problem at the moment is I only get to work on it three 1/2 days a week at the moment & one of my daughters are asking me to doo things for them because there husbanes wouldn't which end of a hammer to hold.

  10. #110
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    IMAG0992 (1).jpgIMAG0989 (1).jpgMy care package turned up from John Craddocks today. All seams to be there but I was disappointed that the front pipe didn't have the 2 X mud shields with it as the show in there parts listing.IMAG0994 (1).jpgIMAG0996 (1).jpgIMAG0995.jpg The reason I bought a new manifold as this is the 3rd manifold that I have broken , all in the same place. I ground some more of the pipe plug in the side of the block besides the rear exhaust port to make sure there were no high spots that could cause the new manifold to brake. Then refitted the manifold & front pipe . I have to go to the bolt Co next week & buy a 7 1/2" BSF bolt for the L/H rear shocky as the original is not long at 7" to attach the exhaust mount , also need some 2" X 5/16" BSF bolts to bolt the clamp between the front & intermediate pipe . I should be able to use the old shocky bolt for the rear bracket.

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