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24th March 2017, 04:34 PM
#111
IMAG0997 (1).jpg I have not worked out how I am going to get around this problem at the moment . The spout in the bottom hose pipe on the water pump has been welded by some one in the wrong position in the pipe & it comes up under the pipe attached to the heater tap. May see if I can buy a 90 deg elbow that will fit a 1/2 " copper pipe . I can get in to a straight piece of hose but it rubs in the other pipe .IMAG1000 (1).jpg I also got a start on the outer guards today giving them a rough up with an orbital sander & filling a couple of small dents. I also ground the heads off the screws securing the spring clip for the bonnet prop. After 67 years they were not going to budge & i didn't want to use a impact driver on the lite gauge aluminum. Will try heat next week to see if I can get the screws to move , failing that drill them out run a tap through the thread & fit new screws.
This is why I am doing the car again now last time if it did not move I painted around it.
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26th March 2017, 02:23 PM
#112
Any Ideas On Indicators
IMAG1007.jpgIMAG1008.jpg !st up I have a question , What has other's done about front indicators on there early 80" LR's ? This is what I am using at the moment but the plastic lens is getting very dull & they are hard to see. I have bought 4 x Defender indicator lights but am unsure how to mount them with out drilling holes in the guards I also do not want them to stand out like sore thumbs . I have the same on the rear at the moment mounted on top of the capping but they are always getting knocked . I think I know what to do at the back but any suggestions would be most welcome.
IMAG1005.jpgIMAG1006.jpg.IMAG1004.jpg Also been doing more work on front guards . The angle stiffener under the L/H guard had broken one of the spot welds , so I drove a wedge under it so I could glue it with Stick-flex , then remover the wedge & placed a wooden block along the angle & clamped it . Once it is dry I will put a countersunk alum pop rivet in it so it is just below the top surface of the guard & fill over the rivet.
The outer guard panels & the R/H inner are in quite good condition But the top of the L/H inner guard needs a bit of attention as moisture has got under the paint which has caused some large bubbles in a number of places . what I have been doing in the past was to brake the bubbles clean up the area & etch prime & touch up with a brush with body color. This was OK while the rest of the paint work was a little tatty .
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28th March 2017, 03:54 PM
#113
IMAG1009_LI.jpg No a lot going on with Landy today , had a guy from the Rover Car Club who is doing up an 88" S1 come around to have a look at what I am doing with Landy & PU some L/R special tools off me .
I did manage to remove the carby & fit the small support bracket for the breather pipe , I will get a star washer to go under the nut as there is not enough thread for a spring washer.
I also need to touch up the paint on the pipe were I moved the clamp.
Also sanded the L/H inner guard & sprayed some more filler /Primer trying to get a couple of small marks out of the top surface.
Humidity here in Brisbane is around 90% with that cyclone up north so hot work sanding & not good weather for top coating , I want to get booth inner & outer guards ready so I can top coat them all at the same time. I am always mixing up too much paint & having to waist it as I am using hardener in it.
It would be good if I can have them ready by the end of the week as I am driving up to Townsville on the weekend for a week while my daughter goes to Uni there for the extra teaching course externally through James Cook University.
I do not know what I am going to do all week will have to see if I can find some S1's to look at.
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21st April 2017, 07:30 AM
#114
I have a question about suppliers , has any one used Dingocroft in the UK ? I have been trying to get a quote for freight off them over the last couple of months , I have now sent off my 5th quote request email to them .
It is just there price for the parts I am after is 1/2 of other suppliers . Also I was wondering on the quality of the parts?
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21st April 2017, 07:51 AM
#115
If their pricing is that low, it's probably all Britpart. I usually start with Brit-car as you can see exactly which brand of part you are ordering.
Cheers,
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21st April 2017, 02:38 PM
#116
I have not tried them. Have been using Craddocks but the exhaust system they supplied were Britpart & were not correct to the photo's , came without mud / heat shields.
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24th April 2017, 06:57 AM
#117
Well I have sent another quote request off to Dingocroft a week ago & still on reply. I could not find what I am after at Britparts so may have to go back to Craddocks & pay double the price . Still not as bad as another co in the UK who had them for 10 times the price plus freight. I have also tried the Series One Shop here but have not received a reply. I just find some of the suppliers that have good prices for parts rip you off with the freight.
What I am looking for are 1" rear wheel cylinders that take 1/4" brake pipes . One of mine the sealing seat that the pipe flare seals against is cracked & the fluid is leaking past the nut.
Even if I can get a S/H R/H side one that I can get re sleeved would get me out of trouble. May just go back to Craddocks may be quicker.
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24th April 2017, 06:44 PM
#118
Have you looked at the options at the series 1 shop? They are located in Victoria but I'm not sure whether the cylinders are britpart or not (I'd be keen to avoid britpart if possible).
80 inch (1948-53)
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24th April 2017, 10:00 PM
#119
Every time I have tried The Series One Shop I have never received a reply to Emails or phone messages I leave , so don't bother waisting my time . The only one time he has returned an Email I had asked for a freight cost & all I received was the cost for the parts which I already knew from his web site.
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25th April 2017, 08:06 AM
#120
I've got some old cast iron wheel brake cylinders. How do I recognise a R/h rear for an 80"? There are no cast part numbers as on alloy ones. There is only a cast ' 1" '. .W.
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