Thread: Tiny bit excited

1. as per johns excellent suggestion - went down to bunnings and sourced some (i think m10) longest bolts i could find

2. cut off the heads with the angle grinder, thread is not a perfect match for the thread in the holden adaptor plate but close enough to get a few turns of the bolts to secure, started off with 5 bolts

3. here you can see the bolts in position, randomly around the rear end of the engine

4. here is the new friction plate mated to the pressure plate - checked like 100 times to ensure its the correct orientation (right way round), held in position with my clutch centering tool prior to fitment

5. now bolted into position, was a good point to have a break BUT then ...

6. so keen to get the gearbox back into position, took a bit of time on my own (sold the engine crane) and had no trolley jack which would of made things much easier and quicker, used pieces of wood and two bottle jacks. finally raised into an upright position of sorts then found the 5 bolts too many (getting in the way) so removed lower two and slid the gearbox into the 3 remaining bolts was a dream. was very careful to slide in did a few turns of the engine to align but the problem for the final push was the rear of the engine was too low, so when i raised it, it just slid into position. now held on loosely with a few bolts/nuts and then remove the made up bolts and secure properly. totally buggered as usual, sweating like a pig, quick shower, couldn't be happier. lots more to do but getting there

Looking good Joe.

thanks 67hardtop

1. got stuck into the seat base - all bolted up just need to tighten a few hard to reach areas like around the fuel tank, all seats secured once again, floor panel will not be bolted until i am sure its all working as it should this time round. gearbox bolts fitted but not tightened. gearstick bolted up. clutch feels smooth all the way through the pedal travel (fingers crossed)

2. got the cross shaft fitted, went in super smoothly, you can see the tape and markings to align as before. surprised how easily this went in this time round (must be doing something right). got onto the prop shaft and tail shafts all fitted and tightened up. what's left you might ask - well its time for the actual start up and test drive on the driveway.

super excited, even more frightened, but that will be my next task (start and drive), did my back in fitting up the gearbox so trying to take it easy for a day or two to recover but just can't stay away. will obviously report back soon as i do the test drive. (fingers crossed)

thanks again to all the support to get me to this point in the build

Sounds good Joe.
When I was buying old Landys I used to check the clutch by engaging top (4th) gear, rev the motor to about 1500-2000 revs, handbrake on and then let clutch out. If clutch good & no slippage, motor should stall. I usually put clutch pedal back in just before motor stalled.

Not sure where to start today... bit disappointed at not getting the outcome i wanted ie a working clutch. so with the new press plate and friction plate (and spigot) I am still getting grinding (crunching of the gears) when trying to engage any gear (1st). so against advice i tightened up the press plate fingers which has helped a little (less crunch) but still unable to engage any gear so my next theory was the adjustment somewhere is wrong, so unable to sleep (thinking for solutions) up at 1.30am and came up with this solution then back to bed after 1hr

1. red is the bolt for the cross shaft in approx 12-1 o'clock position, but there is a huge gap bw the two blue lines, and when you depress the clutch the grow further apart. my theory is that blue bolt is there to stop the shaft hitting the chassis but its resting no where near it and looks wrong to me. can someone confirm please. would love a real life picture of this arrangement on a working clutch. this position is with the clutch pedal in the upright position.

2. took the adjuster pedal rod out and wound the nut all the way to the other end (reducing the amount of travel to minimum)

3. here its fitted into position

4. now its brought the shaft back closer to where it might hit the chassis and just looks right but that cross shaft bolt is now at approx 11-12 o'clock position

5. pedal position looks good

6. here is the shaft fitted into position - and still no good. waited till morning to start her up and no good, still not engaging gears

I have made the adjusting pedal rod set at max and now to minimum and still getting the crunching of the gears - the only other thing i can think of is to tighten the press plate fingers more to achieve the result. Am i missing something here. surely it can't be that hard to adjust the clutch. Am i on the right path with this setting having it moved back closer to that chassis bolt. thanks in advance

G'day,
Firstly, I have no knowledge of the S1 mechanical clutch setup.
However, the reality is you are not going to get lucky with the adjustments to get it working properly.
You need to set a Datum (reference) point to start your adjustments from. The Datum should be a new clutch driven plate and clutch pressure plate. Make a drawing of the adjustment points in your setup together with the procedure from the service manual for the S1 clutch adjustment procedure. The outcome you want is when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor that movement will operate on the pressure plate fingers to release the clutch plate. Sounds simple however, it requires all the adjustments to be set correctly.

Once you understand how it all works and what each adjustment does you will have the clutch working properly in no time.

Hope this helps.
Chris

Joe , Adjusting the pressure plate fingers is not the answer , the pressure plate is factory set & adjusting nuts centre popped & should not be tampered with . I believe your problem is in the cross shaft somewhere . The cross shaft looks bent to me in your photo , also I think I read in one of your posts that you welded up the hole in the X shaft & redialled it , you only need to be 1/2 mm out with that hole & it will make a big difference the travel of the pressure plate.
The small adjusting bolt on the chassis is to set the peddle height at rest there should one also for the brake peddle so you can get them booth the same level.
I do believe you need to look at your X shaft & leave the pressure plate adjustments alone . By adjusting the fingers your self you will probably find once you get the clutch to work & start driving your vehicle it is going to shudder & the box is going to have to come back out & you are going to have to go through all this again.
Just my thoughts but without being there impossible to tell what is going on.

1-2. What can i say except its working, clutch feels smooth as, engages no crunching of gears, no spigot noise, just happy to drive up and down my drive for now. threw on the interior panels except the driver side floor (just in case) needed access. just needs a good once over to ensure all bolts are tight, need some split pins added, gearbox bolts tightened, few remaining engine/gearbox bolts, handbrake works well and stops from rolling down the driveway, drove up in 1st and 2nd gear from dead stop no worries even with the small incline up the driveway for the 202 holden. still has other smaller issues to sort out like that small leak under the fuel tank, and my steering box (not the relay) has a small leak but heh its a LR. pumping the foot brake also stops the LR but i am sure i still have air in the system, so that may be my next job bleeding the brakes. i cannot believe its finally kinda finished and driving. of course it does need a longer drive somewhere safe to ensure all is good.

3. reminder shot of when i picked her up in the paddocks all those years ago to now (12 Jan 2018) was when i started this thread and build, and now nearing 70,000 views wow. thanks to all the folks who have helped me along this journey.

by the way - i played around with the pressure plate fingers against your advice but was the only way to get it going and engaging. can confirm the friction plate is in the right way round so no strange noises there either. cheers