Tiny bit excited

shamirj, please take a look at post #15
.W.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gromit

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Maybe had a front axle changed at some point ?

Colin

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Possibly, but not a six cylinder axle - unless I am mistaken, all sixes were after they went to steering arms on the bottom of the swivel housings. And any Series 2a axle would be noticeably wider than the rear. But it certainly could have brakes off a six.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shamirj

1 did some more sanding and the steering wheel is beginning to look half decent. needs some more bog/sanding and a lick of paint

2 before proceeding any further with the engine, i would like to see if it will fire up. i have a positive cable from the starter ready to fit to positive battery, have earth connected to motor block, and a brown cable from the positive of the coil to positive battery, add some fuel and should this thing start up or am i missing something before attempting to start the engine to life. Oil is full and clean, air is missing the filter and will connect fuel somehow and try to start her up... I have bypassed the starter switch and directly connected the starter motor to the battery when i get one. motor does turn by hand so not seized. hoping i can start her up and it doesn't blow any smoke.

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Shamirj.
You run the risk of a fire and wrecking the starter motor if you connect it directly to the battery, as well as a risk of a battery gas explosion. Wait until you get the starter solenoid switch conected. The starter is only designed to run in short bursts and draws a lot of current, so you must be able to connect and disconnect it instantly. Dont make sparks at the battery, as the gas generated is explosive! KEEP A FIRE EXTINGUISHER HANDY WHEN YOU ARE STARTING UP WITH TEMPORARY CONNECTIONS AND/OR FOR THE FIRST TIME. Wires short and fuel leaks. Don't combine the two! Don't send all your hard work up in smoke!

There is nothing wrong with positive earth if you intend to run it as a 1950's vehicle. The only problem is when you try to connect modern polarity sensitive negative earth equipment such as a sound system. You can't hear them in an aluminium sheet metal box, so why bother? Have you got a crank handle to check the motor is free to turn?

5380.

1-2 driver side front brake wider then rears, 2nd pic rear driver side brakes

3 did notice the difference in drums, one fits inside the other, rear are 10inch, front two 11inch, thanks for pointing this out Gromit.

4-5 measured the distance between outer spring and backing plate of brakes front and rear and both measure same distance. Hoping this means the tyres/wheels when fitted will be equal distance out from the car side. Could measure this with a empty wheel on i guess.

will the different drum sizes effect the brakes other then me remembering to order correct brake shoes etc
5380 thanks for the heads up, will proceed with care. guessing when they did the holden conversion it changed polarity (at a guess). No crank handle on Holden 186 but engine does turn by hand.
LR1953 and JDNSW tie rods are in temporarily and done to your suggestions so thanks mate

If you fit your rims to the hubs & measure from the inside outer edge of the rim front & rear that will tell you if it is towing in or out then adjust the track rod between the wheels untill you get the correct measurement. You just need to make sure you have the same number of turns from center position to full left & full right lockby adjusting the tie rod from steering box to remote idler box.

With the lwb front brakes you need to use a lwb master cylinder, as the two extra cylinders need more fluid.

Can someone please confirm this is off a 80inch S1 steering box as its quite different to the 86inch boxes.

It appears to be an 80" steering box to me. It has the central tube for the horn and headlight wiring.

Aaron

Yes, but unless you know it is off a Landrover, it could be off any of a number of contemporary English cars!

Dose look like an 80# steering box but looks like it is missing some bits at the top.