At least the fuel gauge is telling you that you have almost 3/4 tank of fuel. :whistling:
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At least the fuel gauge is telling you that you have almost 3/4 tank of fuel. :whistling:
The gauges are all "sort of" interchangeable.Quote:
Originally Posted by shamirj
Key differences:-
Gauge cluster - interchangeable from first 86" S1 up to Suffix 'B' Series 2a. From there to end S3 a temperature gauge is added, and ammeter removed. Warning light is now generator light. Fuel gauges are only interchangeable if tank sender is also changed - which may be necessary as the older sender seems to be NLS.
Speedo - there are a variety of different speedos for different tyre sizes, diff ratios and with a different speed range for the six and V8. Add to this the options of metric/imperial, and trip indicator or not, there are a lot of different speedos. The key differences with S1/2/3 are as follows; trip reset changed and the warnig lights moved into the speedo after Suffix 'B' S2a, and the attachment of the cable to the back of the speedo changed with S3. But the most important difference that you can't work round is the number of turns per mile or kilometre, which depends on tyre size and diff ratio. This is shown in tiny digits on the face of the speedo. Somewhere on this forum are the necessary numbers for various cases! Hopefully someone will come in with a reference.
1. played around with door gaps which are adequate now and did lift as high as i could but could not get them flush with the tub sadly
2. rear tub corner panel was missing the inner tube for the hoodsticks so needed a solution
3. found this inner tube from my collection (came off this vehicle) which was a little longer 3.5" suitable for the front as the rears are 3" long shortened and fitted into position, just proud and not sitting flush
4. welded into position
5. grounded down with angle grinder then lightly painted, not perfect but should hold up the hoodsticks once i find them (another item i need to source) as its going to be a soft top having already sold the hard top it came with
1. latest purchase arrived today, i had stupidly thrown my copy of this book out thinking i would never need it but there you go, replaced and very happy to have another copy as a reference point on some LR parts and assemblies
exhaust rear end incl muffler and centre piece ordered, will need to fab up the front section to connect to original LR exhaust system. trying to do the exhaust without the need to trailer the LR to an exhaust shop but lets see how we get along.
struggling with finding a suitable radiator and or close radiator manufacturer nearby to have a small radiator made to suit my application. it will need to be smaller than the original LR rad to squeeze between the headlights and fill inside the void of the radiator support panel, also shorter as mine will sit on the front crossmember and not drop down below the crossmember like the original.
Just an interesting observation about my two rad support panels;
1. my original rad support panel, note the difference in profile - this has a shallow inward insert where the headlight bolts to
2. the other one has a pronounced outward profile where the headlight sit proud of the panel. see red arrow
I am trying to remember back at least 35 years ,I seam to remember the S1 I bought with the Holden motor had the of the backs of the head light bucket cut off so it didn't hit on the Radiator Think it was the L/H one Attachment 159993 It may have been one of these Attachment 159995 so the blue section was cut off . Not sure if this would help you. Pt had sealed beam head lights fitted & the terminals had been straightened flat to give extra clearance [bighmmm]:unsure: My memory is not that good these days , must be getting old :wheelchair: I do remember it did have the front pane shroud trimmed to move the radiator forward & the panel mounted so it was flush with the front of the bonnet .
yes 1950Landy i think you could be onto something, did not even think to cut off headlight rears, it is one side only which will interfere but also need a shorter height radiator to make all fit. the LED lights are flat but don't look period right (too modern), been looking at halogen lights with a LED rear end which tend to be shorter still (if they exist, not seen one yet)
1. Could not find used hoodsticks in reasonable price (over $1000 from o/seas new) so went to local plumbing supplier and bought this gal pipe to make my own, 7.2m long, 2mm thick, OD26.9mm which should fit the hole in capping at ID27mm (hoping) total price of $26.84, cheap as chips
2. close up of outside diameter, 25 or 27mm
3. wall thickness 2mm (receipt said so)
I have the front side panels of the hoodstick set top and bottom, i believe there is another piece along the windscreen top which i don't have. The rest i am hoping i can fabricate at home myself, have no bending tools, thinking heat and bend behind a tree.
Has anyone got some measurements of the hoodstick i have rough ideas based on what i have, but would love detailed measurements, eg side caping centre to centre is 1.50m and height of hood should be between 70-80cm long nearest door including 10cm inward into capping as well
1. upside down view of the gap between the headlight and rear of support panel, not much room to move here but... research has shown most LED lights in 7inch to fit are 80, 78 and 60mm Depth (but are led not halogen)
2. 70mm gap on this painted support panel with newer defender lights, see how the panel protrudes inward here around the headlight
3. 100mm gap on the other unpainted rad support panel i have with diff original lights - see how this one protrudes outward which helps my cause (greater gap), may clean off and remove lights of this panel and use this one instead - just occurred to me that maybe its just the diff bw the headlights thats making the bigger difference in measurements
4. Cut off some of my 7.2m of hoodstick steel to see if it actually fitted inside the capping and perfect with a little wiggle room, was scared i had purchased a size that may not fit but it did, great...
I made mine using Alum pipe , the pipe bender we ad at work would not bend the galv pipe & I could not find anyone in Brisbane who could successfully bend the galv pipe without creasing it .
Attachment 160008Attachment 160009 Attachment 160010 These drawings may help you , the first & second are out of a book i have on 80" LR the third is out of my 86" parts book. The measurements I have added i have taken off an old curved top hood bow I have here.The 1st two drawings are drawn to scale so you should be able to get correct curve .
If you know a plumber they may be able to bend it but I think they mainly just use elbows these days.
If you have not got any of the clamps that hold the bows into the capping i think i may have some you can have.
Before attempting the hoodsticks i thought it might make sense to fit the door tops to figure out where these hoodsticks are supposed to go
1. d/s door top and top panel of the hoodstick fitted into position
2. p/s also done
3. placed a fence paling and marked in green (just visible) 120-121cm above the tub of the highest point in the hoodsticks in the middle of the tub or 91cm for the hoodstick length
4. found this in my late fathers collection of tools but sadly too small to bend this size pipe
5. placed two bricks and tied both hoodsticks together to make a front and rear panel and stood in the middle to give it that gently curve of the hoodsticks, no heating involved.
6. Could someone please provide a measurement of how high till the bolt holes from the capping or base of hoodstick are on both ends, should be the same measurement???
