Tiny bit excited

The end of the rope with the knot should be on the inside of the eyelet, then down around the hook and up into the seam of the canvas to the first side cleat.
.W.

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Originally Posted by shamirj

Thank you to all suggestions, all have been noted, appreciate the feedback

1. so to get these damn washers on, had to remove some hardware (bolts) raise the hood sticks individually in each corner - was a big job for something small, anyway all 4 corners have the washers positioned for welding later on.

2. I have placed an order from the UK for the clamps just hope they fit, there are many for S2-3, just wonder whether there are a difference between the series, maybe a thicker or thinner hoodstick making the clamp a diff diamater

3. nearest the door has the rope end tied up in a ball

4. is this the correct fitment to just slide over and when pulled tight holds into position?

5. as she sits in the garage at the moment, i tightened up all the ropes for the canvas just to see how well it all sits, still have a little wiggle room for the hoodsticks to move up or down to tighten up the canvas stretch, some minor adjustments to be made prior to welding those washers in position

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hi those washer are too heavey i also have the original clips not repro jim ps they are for sae on special of the month

Thanks BSF, you were correct as i found the instructions for fitting the hood

1-2. Found these instructions for fitting the exmoor trim hood, thought it maybe useful for others restoring S1 vehicles, was at the bottom of the box.

3. sorted the side rope either side after viewing the instructions.

Did a general clean up inside the vehicle, sorted how to wire up the blinker stalk, seems to be working when temp wired up, fitted to steering wheel. I just have to sort out the exhaust system, clutch issue then maybe become mobile. And of course the wiring...

Seeing as you did such a good job with your hood bows you may be able to make your own front pipe with your pipe bender. If you have a bit of scrap exhaust pipe to practice with.[bighmmm]

1950Landy - was thinking the same thing re the exhaust.

1. please look at the cross shaft orientation and the bushing inside the box in its rested position without engaging the clutch

2. then I have rotated the cross shaft to its maximum travel to release the bushing (push out) into its clutch engaged position

3. measured the gap between engage and disengaged

4. 24mm - to me seems enough travel that should dis/engage the clutch, Im beginning to think its something else which is my problem

5. I have not tested the clutch though looked ok to me, but what about the pressure plate? Could the shaft travel of 24mm obviously be not sufficient to dis/engage the clutch but could the pressure plate springs in the centre have lost its 'springiness' if you get my idea, and thus there is no contact between the pair. Might need to have that pressure plate tested or looked at next?

1. Please look carefully at the jaws or teeth of my pressure plate - notice in orange these teeth are below the centre level line, as in depressed inwards by a small amount

2. Now look at these new items found on the internet for sale - notice the teeth are protruding outwards to engage with the clutch bushing, i think i have solved my clutch issue. Can i get the pressure plate reconditioned?

Quick look found craddocks sell for 41 pound + clutch 28 pound total approx 70 pound plus freight 400 pound, crazy. Press Plate new in Oz approx $300 incl delivery, just need to measure whether mine is a 9 or 9.5inch press plate

The pressure plate in the second pic is not mounted so fingers will protrude more than your as yours is now mounted and under pressure. Haven't read your issues but just jumping in at this point, I wouldn't base your diagnosis entirely on the 2 pics .
Regards Pas

Yes. The position of the pressure plate fingers when installed depends on the thickness of the driven plate.

Possible issues include incorrect setting of the cross shaft in the release fork (book tells how to do this), incorrect pressure plate, incorrect driven plate, incorrect adjustment of the fingers, excessive metal taken off the flywheel when machined.

thanks theelms66, good point.

1. took some measurements by placing some steel across the face of the box

2. then took measurement of clutch bushing in - approx 50mm

3. clutch bushing out - approx 30mm

4. a measurement of the rear end of the bell housing which sits approx 60mm, so my theory (if correct ???) if the clutch bushing from the box only protrudes (between 50-30mm) then am i getting 30mm input into the pressure plate which should be half way to its 60mm depth.

Joe , Hope you are OK ,no posts for a couple of days , not like you . Are you just having a brake from the S1 .
Wayne