Reply With QuoteI hope you ensured that the fingers are all at the same height - if not, you are likely to have the clutch dragging in some circumstances. (been there, done that, albeit not a Landrover)
Wizard
SupporterFinally have a working clutch, working smoothly as it should so what was the answer to this dilemma well let me thank all that have provided me with wonderful help and advice including but not limited to JDNSW & 1950Landy but Xtreme had the answer all along. One word ADJUSTABLE FINGERS ON PRESSURE PLATE.
1. In this pic, you can see (hopefully) i have adjusted the two top fingers to protrude outwards and the bottom in its original position - millimetre wise i think i went from fingers sitting approx 25mm back to 12-13mm back from the top face of pressure plate. unsure whether this would be enough I thought the free play of the top hat sleeve was only 30mm so its gotta make a difference. Step 2 was to trial refit the box (3rd time)
2. all three fingers adjusted to as far as i could get them to protrude outwards and close the gap of the top hat sleeve
3. up close of the top hat sleeve location in relation to the pressure plate fingers, at this point i thought i had it solved but that damn cross shaft needed a little adjusting (correctly locating on the right tooth to reduce all free play) and viola JOB DONE...
4. Clutch feels so good, smooth, resistance when pushing to the floor and now sits proud of the brake pedal. WOW, cannot believe its another job done. thanks again to all, without your help probably would not have got this far. cheers
Couple of BIG moments in this build so far have included 1. starting the LR for the first time ever since ownership, 2. making the hoodsticks and purchasing the hood, 3. problem solving the clutch issue today. what a relief...
Last edited by shamirj; 21st June 2020 at 08:55 AM. Reason: update
Land Rover
RoverLord
I hope you ensured that the fingers are all at the same height - if not, you are likely to have the clutch dragging in some circumstances. (been there, done that, albeit not a Landrover)
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
AT REST
SubscriberYou still need a bit of free play at the pedal, you don't want the top hat/thrust bearing in contact with the fingers all the time as it won't last long like that.Originally Posted by shamirj
Otherwise, I'm glad that you were able to finally get on top of another "BIG moment".
Roger
YarnMaster
SupporterThe other thing is if the fingers are not of the same adjustment you may find the clutch will shudder.
Wizard
Supporter1. moving on to the interior and whilst premature just had to get the seat base in, loosely bolted as i need to sort out hand brake, fit gearbox mounts etc. tightened down some other bits n pieces (bolts n nuts) around the body and bottom of door seals
2. seat base in position, can't wait to put in my seats bases were done long time ago but seat backs still need doing. also need the middle seat base cover for the seat base, prob buy some aluminium and cut to size
Land Rover
Wizard
Supporterso tried to start the old girl up wouldn't but what I did notice is when I was cranking her over the front and rear shafts for the prop/tail shaft if connected would have spun, is this normal? can't be, double checked it was in neutral but both shafts turning whilst on the crank. is this related to the clutch issue i was having?
1-2. temporarily fitted the gear stick with just two bolts to ensure it was in neutral
3. front propshaft disconnected but was turning on the crank
4. rear brake drum was turning on the crank, tailshaft disconnected.
what have i done wrong here? just as well i checked before connecting all the gearbox bolts and seat base permanently.
Land Rover
AT REST
SubscriberFirst thing to do would be to check the pressure plate finger height for uniformity and introduce some free play in your clutch mechanism, as suggested in previous posts.
Roger
YarnMaster
SupporterIf the gear box is in neutral they should not be turning. From the photo's it is too hard to see the selectors.
RoverLord
If the prop shafts are removed, it is possible for the whole lot to turn over just with drag from the oil (particularly in cold weather when the oil is stiff). With the engine stopped, and main gearbox in neutral, check that both output flanges turn freely by hand.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Wizard
Supporter1. main gearbox back out to check the clearance between the top hat sleeve and fingers of the pressure plate. loosened off the nuts for the fingers to create space between the two only to fit the box back in to see i have gone to far, so now the clutch not engaging again so will need to pull out again to readjust.
2. selector fork in neutral position. both rear and front shafts do turn by hand in neutral position when separated (box and engine) and when together. so i think it must have been the top hat sleeve catching making the two shaft turn in neutral.
tired even though its not a complete box removal but lining up each time can be time consuming, removal of the box easy, refit takes more time and energy. this was the 4th removal and think the next (hopefully will be my last attempt). battery on charge was feeling a little flat. seat base out that was short lived and i prob jumped the gun there.
Land Rover
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