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Well the head is off.
No evidence of leakage between 1-2 or 3-4, not that there were any symptoms of this.
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I can feel no indication of any lip at the top of any of the cylinder bores, when felt with a fingernail. The cylinders are mirror smooth which would be glazing?
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If there is no wear lip at the top of the cylinders, would you necessarily go to a rebore?
Thoughts?
Chris
The bore's had a taper at the top to assist with fitting pistons so there could be wear but it may not show as a lip. You will need to get the bored & pistons measured by engine reconditioner. You may be lucky & just have to give it a hone. You will need to find an engine reconditioner who is familiar with the Rover inlet over exhaust motor . If the engine needs a rebore because the block is tapered at the top they need to wedge the boreing bar so so yhey don't bore it on an angle.
Righto, how the hell do you remove the exhaust rocker shaft from the block? The manual just says extract the shaft using part #262749. Is there an internal thread in the end of the shaft that can be engaged to draw the shaft out through the rear of the block?
Otherwise the pull-down is going ok. Everything is very sooty so looking forward to giving everything a good wash.
The engine is going in to a local machine shop on Monday (hopefully) to be measured up re bores and main bearings. They also have the machine to give it a good clean. From there I can assess further work required.
Thanks,
Chris
Got it. Take out the plug at the front and drift them out towards the rear. The plug is a weird square size and I had to grind down a scrap bolt to fit it.
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The tool to extract the ex rocker shaft is an easyout welded to a bit of round bar with a T handle. I have a drawing here with the measurements but can't post it at the moment as I will not have a desk top untill november.
I started a thread on Special Tools For IOE Engines I think you will find the drawing in there , there will also be a drawing to make the tool to hold the timing chain tentioner , it makes it a lot easier to refit the tentioner on reassembly. With out the tool it is possable brake the pivot lug on the tentioner.
With out my desk top I can not open attachments as my tablet wont allow it.
Thanks. I recall your thread. I'll have a look through it again.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Cheers.
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I have set my desk top back together in bedroom with ext lead running to nearest phone line so have been able to up load the drawings ' Theas tools are well worth making , the T handle allows you to rotate the rocker shaft when reinstalling it , makes it easier to line every thing up & the tensioner tool makes life easier on reassembly . The tensioner tool I made out of thin stainless steel it is stiffer than mild steel so does not bend with the spring tension of the tensioner. Hope this is of some help,
Thanks mate, your efforts are much appreciated. Both of those tools look easy enough to make up. Another option may be a couple of cable ties (or tie wire loops) around the compressed spring which can be cut off after installation.Quote:
Originally Posted by 1950landy
Chris.
I took the short engine to a machine shop for them to disassemble it and measure it up. I dropped in and had a look today and the big end and main journals are badly scored. There is a small lip on the bores also. Looks like as a minimum a crank regrind and new under size shells. The machine shop is having issues with the lack of tolerance data for the engine or even a nominal piston size. All I can give them is the workshop manual which just has a basic diameter for bore, journal diameter etc. Is there any other data available or just use dead reckoning?
Don't want to go to new pistons as this will add a fair few more dollars to the project, we will see what the feedback is....
Didn't get any photos today unfortunately.
