Thread: Hi - New Owner of a Series 1 - a 1952 80

Hey, looks really good. Same year as mine.

I was happy with the state of mine when I got it but this one looks better.

Hi and Thanks
Great - you might have a few thought/research on what bits are original - especially the bits currently missing like
seats,
soft top hood
air cleaner - precleaner/cyclone
I think it came with the/a suitable ventilator flap - but I need to make sure it matches/fits etc

cheers

Nobby

Originally Posted by McBrain283

Hey, looks really good. Same year as mine.

I was happy with the state of mine when I got it but this one looks better.

Hi all
Here goes the first of what I am sure will be many questions....
The seller of the S1 - couldn't remember if the 52 model was Positive or Negative earth - is there an easy way to tell? He had it running 7 years ago ...but can't remember. Any tips would be gratefully received!
Also I assume it is ok to start and run it without the centrifugal air pre cleaner ? (If anyone has a spare on of those to sell - please Pm me!)

cheers

Nobby

Originally Posted by NobbyTD5

Hi all
Here goes the first of what I am sure will be many questions....
The seller of the S1 - couldn't remember if the 52 model was Positive or Negative earth - is there an easy way to tell? He had it running 7 years ago ...but can't remember. Any tips would be gratefully received!
Also I assume it is ok to start and run it without the centrifugal air pre cleaner ? (If anyone has a spare on of those to sell - please Pm me!)

cheers

Nobby

It will have been positive earth new.

Connect a battery, with the larger clamp on the positive, ensuring nothing is on. Switch on headlights. The ammeter should now show discharge. If it shows charge, you have wrong polarity.

The only polarity sensitive wiring as sold is the ammeter, and this needs to be reversed connections if changing (and the battery momentarily shorted through the generator.

Warning. The usual reason for changing polarity is to connect negative earth equipment, such as radios or an alternator. These are likely to be destroyed if connected to the wrong polarity.

John
Thank you! That sounds like a simple test - it has no radio's etc nor an alternator
I will test it - with a battery that I have here

then...
I will then source a long term battery, clean the fuel tank (interesting looking sludge/syrup in there - but lucky it is galvanised and in fairly good shape), see if radiator/ holds water, oil seems fresh and in good condition - and see if it will start!

the journey begins ...

cheers

Nobby

Originally Posted by JDNSW

It will have been positive earth new.

Connect a battery, with the larger clamp on the positive, ensuring nothing is on. Switch on headlights. The ammeter should now show discharge. If it shows charge, you have wrong polarity.

The only polarity sensitive wiring as sold is the ammeter, and this needs to be reversed connections if changing (and the battery momentarily shorted through the generator.

Warning. The usual reason for changing polarity is to connect negative earth equipment, such as radios or an alternator. These are likely to be destroyed if connected to the wrong polarity.

Hi all - some photo's of the new toy!
any comments welcome
cheers

Nobby


ENGINE L.jpgFront L.jpgBack Photo L.jpgDash L.jpg

Originally Posted by NobbyTD5

Hi all
Here goes the first of what I am sure will be many questions....
The seller of the S1 - couldn't remember if the 52 model was Positive or Negative earth - is there an easy way to tell? He had it running 7 years ago ...but can't remember. Any tips would be gratefully received!
Also I assume it is ok to start and run it without the centrifugal air pre cleaner ? (If anyone has a spare on of those to sell - please Pm me!)

cheers

Nobby

Nobby,
All Series 1,2 and some IIA were positive earth except for some special build army models etc. Positive earth works well as long as you don't want to run modern electronics. I like the nice paint patina on your new toy- don't paint it!
Also, dont try to start it until you drain the old oil (sludge!) and put some new mineral 20W/50 or Nulon X-Pro 25W/60 oil in it. It will run without the pre cleaner, but may be a tiny bit lean. They tend to run rich anyway due to wear and tear in the carbie and worn float valve etc, so don't panic. Set the timing at about 12 degrees and points at 0.014". If it still has the original Lucas DVXH4A distributor, you can buy good quality points, condenser and rotor from Heads Tractor Spares, (same as grey Fergie). Don't put one of those junk aftermarket carbs on it. Rebuild the orignal. Most S1s have aftermarket fuel pumps that are usually way too high in pressure, causing flooding and rich running. If has the original SU LP pump , the diaphragm will probably have gone hard by now, needing replacement. They run OK on 91 fuel with Flash Lube to protect the inlet valves, and seats. The exhaust valve seats have hardened inserts. I have a fairly original '53 model, which is nearly identical to yours, so Pm me if you get stuck, or need info.
Cheers, Mike (5380)

Originally Posted by NobbyTD5

Hi all - some photo's of the new toy!
any comments welcome
cheers

Nobby


ENGINE L.jpgFront L.jpgBack Photo L.jpgDash L.jpg

Nice buy!
It looks like it's been in dry storage and has not been altered too much at all, very,very, lucky!! Just needs some new seats and a few odds and ends to tidy it up. Very tidy under the bonnet. Looks like the correct Lucas DVXH4A dizzy, but with a Grey Fergie cap and later aluminium bodied coil and AM fuel pump. The dash looks OK, but the red and black accessory / trouble lamp sockets are missing. The only hard thing to find may be the missing conical pre cleaner, but someone may have a spare one in the shed. They were fitted up to the 1954 models as well.
I can probably help you with the accessory sockets and other small parts. I can also help with a pair of ST51 tailights with bar if you want to do a swap for the later 1954 no-bar lights fitted to yours. Charlesworth Mouldings in the UK do horn buttons etc. for you steering wheel switches. Be careful if you feel the urge to remove this switch, the clamp holding it in place is at the bottom of the steering box! The stator tube with wires runs all the way down through the hollow steering column to the above mentioned clamp at the bottom.
Take heaps of pictures and used labelled HD zip lock bags as you go. Saves a lot of head scratching later on! Try and save as many of the original BSF and BA fasteners as possible., they are god quality and hard to replace. If you PM me I can send some pics of mine if that helps determine what's right and wrong with your new toy. 5380