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Thread: Series 1 Springs

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Thanks Diana - have saved those docs for future reference - looks like my spare springs are OK - at least in the unloaded state - I will clean them up and see how they go.

    Thanks

    Garry
    Garry (note correct spelling this time)

    Often with S1's the reason that springs punch holes in the chassis is because the rubber bushes have gone and the S1 front shackles are too short to prevent the secondary leaf rubbing on the bottom of the chassis. Some people replace the S1 type with S2/S3 shackles which are about 9/16" longer. The problem is that it also makes the angle on the drive shaft more acute and the shaft too short, you also risk bump steer.

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Often with S1's the reason that springs punch holes in the chassis is because the rubber bushes have gone and the S1 front shackles are too short to prevent the secondary leaf rubbing on the bottom of the chassis. Some people replace the S1 type with S2/S3 shackles which are about 9/16" longer. The problem is that it also makes the angle on the drive shaft more acute and the shaft too short, you also risk bump steer.

    Diana
    Hmm interesting - I will have to replace (or at least respline) the drive shafts anyway - maybe a mod is needed to make to shaft a little longer and put on the extended shackles.

    Garry
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    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Hmm interesting - I will have to replace (or at least respline) the drive shafts anyway - maybe a mod is needed to make to shaft a little longer and put on the extended shackles.

    Garry
    You don't have freewheeling hubs do you???? - often a cause for worn prop shaft splines.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    You don't have freewheeling hubs do you???? - often a cause for worn prop shaft splines.
    More like 50 years of hard use and little maintenence
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    You don't have freewheeling hubs do you???? - often a cause for worn prop shaft splines.
    How would freewheeling hubs cause a propellor shaft to wear?

    Aaron.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    How would freewheeling hubs cause a propellor shaft to wear?

    Aaron.
    Because the shaft stays in the one position without rotating and every suspension movement of the front axle assembly creates wear in the one plain on the shaft splines as the shaft elongates and compresses and there is also brinnelling in the one plain on the universal bearing caps.

    That is before we discuss the lubrication of the Railco bushes and brinnelling of the halfshaft joint.

    Anyone want to buy a pair of freewheeling hubs?

    Diana

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #17
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    wear

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    How would freewheeling hubs cause a propellor shaft to wear?

    Aaron.
    Hi Aaron,
    Yes it's sort of a left field 'thing' that has been well proven over the years . Apart from the problems defined in Diana's excellent explanation, rust can form on the exposed parts of the diff as oil isnt being thrown around . I know it doesn't sound plausible, but some people have experienced it . Some daily drivers with FWH's fitted, may not see 4wd action for many years .. Have you heard of Toorak tractors ?

    Mike

  8. #18
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    Are freewheeling hubs worth the effort? If the hubs were engaged every now and then what would the downside of freewheeling hubs be, are they still going to wear the driveshafts? What is the milage difference with and without?

    As for springs, is it just the earlier ones that have different rates or heights for either side?

  9. #19
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    I had free wheeling hubs on my first series 1 about 20 years ago - I had them on the car for 9 years before I sold it - I had absolutely no issues but it was regularly used in 4wd.

    I did not notice any change in fuel consumption but there was less vibration from the front end when driving along the highway with the FWH off.

    This was the same with my series 3 that also had fwh.

    If you want them put them on - driving is a little smoother but you do need to engage them once a week for a short period.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #20
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    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I would very much doubt that free wheel hubs are "worth it", although that depends how much you pay for them. I have free wheel hubs on my 2a, but they were on a (well, chassis) Landrover I bought for $15, so not exactly expensive. But I rarely unlock them, only when on long trips on the bitumen or when I need a creeper gear on a hard surface.

    They would not cause problems if you turn over the works almost every time you use the vehicle. Not often noted, but you do not have to engage the hubs - just engage four wheel drive, although with hubs unlocked, definitely do not do this while moving. Although, depending on the hub, it may be a good idea to exercise the selector mechanism form time to time anyway.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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