Thread: LEAKING WATER PUMP

Like most other cars ..the pump has a carbon seal, running against a metal face ... Often corrosion affects the face ( often happens after a long non-running period ) , which tends to allow coolant past the carbon seal. Sometimes the seal settles down and it seals up again .. try driving it around for a while and the leak might fix itself .

And , try wobbling the fan ( with motor not running ) any wobble in the bearing, will accentuate the leak and the leak won't fix itself . A loose wobbly bearing = a teardown and repair of the pump.

Ive often thought of a cheap way of fixing those pumps ..new after market pumps are typically around $200 .... Problem is , most pumps have the seal bearing against the body itself..but series 1 pumps have the seal bearing against the impeller .. the other way around.

The major problem pulling them down is : the impeller always breaks , its very fragile and any pressure tends to crack it .

I've succcessfully used a Chevy kit to rebuild one , but it involved modifying the chev impellor .

Hope that helps

PS OOPS most important ..if it is an original alloy bodied pump.. they can be impossible to remove from the block..Over many years, the long steel studs weld themselves onto the alloy body of the pump.... takes hours of heating and hitting to get em off . I had to cut one off on one occasion . When installing the pump..make sure you use hi temp grease or something on those long studs .... otherwise , it'll never come off again.

Mike

Originally Posted by series1buff

.. try driving it around for a while and the leak might fix itself .

And , try wobbling the fan

they can be impossible to remove from the block..

Many thanks, 'buff

This is exactly the sort of answer I was hoping for.

Just tried and definitely no fan wobble, so will try topping up the coolant between runs and see if it 'heals' itself. It has been sitting for several years with coolant drained so corrosion on the carbon/metal interface is entirely possible, as you suggest. Finger crossed that's all it is.

Thanks again

D

Hi there

Keep an eye on ebay - as theres been a few new ones adverstised for $150...........

All the best

Wayne

Thanks Wayne

If looking at replacement units, are there any brands or suppliers to avoid? I assume new units on ebay are non-original parts?

Cheers

D

Hi there

I need to stress I am no expert - but I have rebuilt a few with kits and you dont get much change out of $100.

I havent bought one of the pumps of ebay, but for the money its seems like a reasonable deal..........has anyone bought one to give us there views.

I will say if the pump is leaking, and still persists to leak after a little running - please relace the pump as is a cheaper option than overheating the engine.

My veiws and all the best

Wayne

Thanks again Wayne

Sounds like good advice

D

Originally Posted by dreamin'

Thanks Wayne

If looking at replacement units, are there any brands or suppliers to avoid? I assume new units on ebay are non-original parts?

Cheers

D

The aftermarket cast iron pumps were sold in the UK for years . Keith Wadsworth of Yorkshire was having them made off shore ( probably in India is my guess) - he supplied other companies like Cox and Turner ... From what I understand they are of good quality .. I rang him once and he told me his maker had decided to pull out as it wasn't worth making small batches of them.. that was 3 years back. Dont know the current situation.

The current repro ones ..don't know ... it's a lot to pay if it's a dud . One forum member reported buying a new cast iron pump and it leaked a few months later .. so who knows.

I still think self repair is the way to go ..you know whats inside it . There are cheap rubbish bearings out there too - I got caught buying one ..wobbly junk .

the other alternative is : there are currently 2 companies in Melbourne who rebuild them.. cost is around $150 . One mob advertises in RESTORED CARS magazine ..its in ELTHAM I think. The other is AUTO COOLING in South Melbourne ..both are reputable and would do a top job.

Mike

Thank you all for the great advice.

I am not set up with presses and things for a rebuild so, if the problem doesn't go away by itself, will definitely look into the Melb firms.

Drove around the paddock for about 20 mins today and, while the leak is still there, I think it may have reduced a little. Will do so again on the weekend and see if there is any improvement.

The engine is running beautifully once warmed up and off the cold start - top radiator hose gets very warm and there don't seem to be leaks or hisses anywhere else. I take it this means the pump is actually working and the system is doing its job, despite the leak. Is this right?

Thanks again

D