1955 S1 rebuild

In case you're not aware, you should hit the tie-rod on the end so that the shock is directed down the tie-rod. The effect is to expand the "ring" which sits over the ball joint taper and it should at some point fall free. The usual tendency of those who don't know this is to hit the ball joint tapered shaft (with or without the crown nut on it!) downwards to try and force the tapered shaft out of the ring it sits in. This usually won't work.

Also, if you hit it on the end (at right angles to the taper, that is) you can hit it really, really, hard without damaging anything.

I wish I had time to make a diagram, but I think it makes sense!

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Originally Posted by Lost Landy

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Just my 10c worth.

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Wow that's inflation from the old 2¢ worth? :D ;)

Well tonight was the night - i managed to get stuck into the landie after work and firstly wheeled out the front axle, had to grind off one bolt seized in. dropped the chassis and move the engine off its mounts and then lowered the engine off to the ground then raised the chassis to spin the engine away. then on my own managed to lift the chassis onto its side:) and stand erect to the wall. now i can clean the bottom of the chassis and do some minor repairs.:D

what should i squirt into the chassis where i cant clean, not sure something runny would be good. old oil and whats the best way to spray inside to lubricate the inner chassis steel.:angel:

petrol tank was cleaned and painted one coat of black enamel, had some run on the paint as small amount of petrol inside leaked. this was brushed on so next time i will spray the black enamel on.

firewall has been cleaned and painted (brushed) with stop rust in a green colour awaiting final spray on later.

thinking of galvanising the foot pedals and controls once cleaned up.:cool:

thats enough for one night happy to have gotten the chassis completely bare and now i can clean till Im happy. its slow work with wire brush on drill but it cleans really well. there seems to be some yellow paint and then the original green paint on chassis but not sure what the yellow paint is or was.

You can fit one of those spray cleaning guns with a flexible hose instead of the long metal one and spray fishoil inside the chassis through the various holes in it. Every now and then turn the chassis 90 degrees and tip it from end to end to let the fish oil run right through. Can be a bit messy and takes a little time but end result is worth it. I did an 80" chassis like this and it come up a treat.
Regards
Maffra

yellow paint is the under coat, i had the same on my chassi.

your doing great keep up the work & thanks for the pics!

cheers Chris ;)

Here is a pic of the landie when i first picked her up all the way from Bega took some hours to find her and towed her back in the Disco Td5. Not a prob for the disco but was a little slow on return with trailer and added weight.:)

thx for the flexible hose idea will do. Assuming i can pick up from bunnings and the fishoil. how did you get the junk out of the inside of the chassi though. :(

last night did more work - this time taking a stubborn spring bolt out by grinding it and then the bush but left the outer ring in situ in chassi. tried hammering out with a socket same size but did not budge at all. sprayed wd40 no effect either. rubber and inner is removed but the outer steel wont move any ideas of removing this bush from the chassi.

also am thinking of getting a wire brush but a longer one to do some areas. all my wire brushes have a small rod to connect to drill. are there longer ones or do i just weld a piece of rod to one i have.:cool:

jeez the garage is looking crap though and everytime i spin the drill it flicks all crap all over the garage floor. need a serious clean this weekend of the floor at least and with the front diff spilling oil on the floor.:mad:not happy jan

Hi,
I used a clear reinforced flexible hose that we just slid over the metal nozzle of the spray gun. Used the type of hose we did because it just happened to be what was lying around. Good to use something that won't crush as it goes around corners etc though.
Didn't remove the spray nozzle as I said in my earlier post. A longish piece of hose enables you to get it well inside.
Got the fishoil at Bunnings or one of those auto shops, forget which but easy to find.
Got the crap out of the chassis by cutting off the front end caps. Yours look like they need treatment anyway so shouldn't be a problem. May need to remove the front bumper bolt mount crush tubes just inside the chassis rail. Stand the chassis up and give it a light tap all over with a hammer. Amazing what can come out. Also used compressed air through the many holes available along the chassis to blow stuff out. I just kept working at it. Tipped the chassis this way and that way and eventually stuff stops coming out.
Then sprayed the fishoil in from wherever I could get the hose in. Tipped the chassis up, rolled it over to make sure that all surfaces and corners inside were treated. A bit messy as the fishoil does leak out a bit. Once it covers all surfaces it seals them and does a good job.
When finished insert the front bumper mount crush tubes and weld the front caps back on.
As I say, a bit messy, takes time, but does a good job.
You might end up with a few new cats as well !
hope this helps.
Regards
Maffra

Just read your post again about the spring bush stuck inside the chassis. You can make up a puller pretty easy with a long bolt. Use a piece of tube or something on one end the same size as the bush. Pack the end of the bolt with a same size washer as the piece of tube so the head of the bolt can't pull through. On the other end use a tube larger than the bush so the bush can be pulled inside it. place it on the chassis around the bush. Put a suitable washer on the end and the nut on the bolt. Hold one end of the bolt with a spanner and do the nut up. Bush should slide out. May need to tap the end of the bolt if the nut tightens and no movement in the bush. Again, take your time and do it slowly. I think I have a home made puller here like the one I describe so may be able to photograph and send to you if you like.
Regards
Maffra

The best way to remove that bush from the chassis would be to carefully cut through one side with a hacksaw and then bash it out with a cold chisel or reinforced screwdriver.

I got the bushes out of Gus using the method that Numpty has outlined, but I also heated it up with a blowtorch first, and doused it in WD40 whilst hot.

They came out reasonably easily.